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ARTIFICIAL ANCHORS
Artificial anchoring devices include
chocks, wired nuts, hexes, bolts,
pitons, camming devices, vehicles,
and buildings. Artificial protection
that involves placement, such as
cams, pitons, bolts, requires
proficiency gained through direct
hands-on experience.

Wired Nuts/Stoppers; Wired
stoppers are designed with a
transverse taper that permits
sideways placements in flares and
shallow seams, but have rounded Figure 120- Wired Nuts. Black Diamond Stoppers and
edges that make for easier removal nut tool used to aid in removal
(Figure 121). They are color-coded by size and equipped with a galvanized steel cable.

When placed in a natural rock constriction they provide a solid placement, but they do
not function as well in parallel cracks. They are very dependent on direction of force
applied. The amount of surface area in contact with the rock is critical. Also look at the
quality of the rock and likelihood that it will fail. Smaller sized nuts are not as solid for
rescue applications due to the smaller surface area in contact with the rock.

Spring Loaded Camming Devices (SLCD);
These mechanical devices consist of two, three, or four cams mounted on a common

axle or two adjacent axles, so that using a pull-trigger on the axle forces the cams to
spread farther apart. Camalots™ manufactured by Black Diamond incorporate a flexible
stem with a double-
axle design allowing
increased retraction
of the cam lobes
(Figure 122). These
are best placed in
parallel sided
cracks and less
dependent on
direction of pull. Be

aware that they can
Figure 121- Black Diamond Camalots™ - Sizes 4, 3, 2, 1 and 0.5 (left to right)

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