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Chapter 12



               ASCENDING

               Various techniques exist for ascending a fixed rope.  Depending on the situation, some
               are more efficient than others.  It is best to learn one ascending technique well and feel
               confident in its use, yet still be familiar with some alternate methods.

               Single Rope Technique (SRT); Involves reliance on only one rope to support the load.

               This requires that the rope is thoroughly protected from edges and rockfall.  Although
               the safest practice is a separate main line and belay line, it is not always practical to
               have separate belays for each person on a rescue.  The decision to deviate and use
               SRT technique requires sound judgment on the part of rescuers and should be
               the exception rather than normal operating procedure.

               There are many types of ascenders available, but these are the most common:
                   •  Friction Hitches (Purcell Prusik System)
                   •  Closed Ascenders (e.g. Gibbs or Rock Exotica Rescucender)
                   •  Handled Ascenders (e.g. Petzl, CMI, Clog, and ISC)

               Ascender is a mechanical device used
               for climbing on a rope (Figure 147). One
               such early device was the Jumar,

               named after Adolph Juesi and Walter
               Marti, the two Swiss men who
               developed it and began production of
                             65
               them in 1958 .  Although no longer
               produced, the device's name lead to the
               term “Jumaring” for the process of using
               such a device to ascend a fixed rope.
               Other terms include ascending and
               “jugging.” Handled ascenders have the
               advantage of being easily attached or
               removed from a rope.  The safety catch
               on a mechanical ascender will normally
               keep it from twisting off of the rope in a   Figure 147- Rescuer uses mechanical ascenders

               vertical orientation, however additional     on a fixed line with a separate belay in place.


               65  Montgomery, Neil R. Single Rope Techniques. p. 77


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