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Santa Maria in Trastevere
                                                    was first built in 337 AD and
                                                    is believed to be one of the
                                                    oldest churches in Rome and
                                                    a site of worship when
                                                    Christianity was  a minority
                                                    cult and the emperors were
                                                    pagan.
                                                    Pope Innocent II razed the
                                                    church in 1140-43 along
                                                    with the recently completed
                                                    tomb of his former rival, the
                                                    Antipope Anacletus II. When
                                                    it was re-erected on its old
                                                    foundation, he arranged for
                                                    his own burial on the spot
                                                    formerly occupied by his
                                                    rival’s tomb. Nice guy.


                                                      Online Video:  Basilica
                                                    di Santa Maria in
                                                    Trastevere (2m 55s)


              About ten minutes walk from the
        Palazzo Baj is Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.
           The church is believed to have existed
           here since the third century AD in the
        home of Cecilia, a Roman noble woman,
        martyred here for her faith. She survived
         an attempt to execute her with steam in
            her own bath-house and a botched
            attempt at beheading which left her
                     lingering for three days.
            Under the main altar is a glass case
         enclosing the white marble sculpture of
               St.Cecilia by the sculptor Stefano
                Maderno. A marble slab in the
           pavement in front of the case, quotes
         Maderno's sworn statement that he has
        recorded the body as he saw it when the
                   tomb was opened in 1599.

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