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Discovering the Baja California Wine Region



      By Robin Dohrn-Simpson



     “You go to the house with the three green arches and turn   Emilion and Malaga. Wine in the Guadalupe Valley is an
     right, follow the dirt road, through the vineyards, cross the   international affair. Only 1% of the Mexican population drink
     stream then follow the signs of the Kremlin. After about   wine, therefore most wines are exported, both to the United
     two miles you’ll see some large trees, that is the Russian   States and to Europe.
     Winery. You can’t miss it.” This is how it is winetasting in
     Guadalupe Valley just outside of Ensenada,
     Baja, Mexico.

     So, we head off down the dirt road in what we
     hope is the right way from the directions we
     have just received in Spanish. It is fall and the
     grapes have just been harvested, however
     there is still some greenery remaining filling
     out the rows upon rows of vines. The valley
     sprawls for several miles and the surrounding
     brown hills are dotted with olive trees. The
     valley floor explodes with fall colors; rust,
     orange, magenta and forest green.  We have
     come to enjoy the fruits of the harvest.


     The Baja California Wine Coun-
     try is a short 65 miles south of
 6   San Diego and 10 miles north-
     east of Ensenada and the Pacific
     coast. The Ruta del Vino (Wine Route) is                 The wine world in Baja is unique unto itself, not trying
     well marked with signs posted along the                  to be Tuscan or Californian. The architecture of the
     highway directing you to different winer-                wineries in Baja is classic Mexican with white walls,
     ies. The area is comprised of three val-                 sharp-angled buildings and plenty of red brick arches
                                                              lining walkways.
     leys: Calafia, Guadalupe and San Antonio  One of my favor-
     de las Minas and boasts 19 charming and                  ite buildings, the
     diverse wineries. These wineries range                   Adobe Guadal-
                                                              upe Winery and
     from small boutique-style family busi-                   B&B was
     nesses to large industrialized operations.               designed by
                                                              Nassir Haghigh-
                                                              at, a Persian ar-
     Wines are not new to Mexico. Winemaking dates back to    chitect. It is both
     the Spanish conquistadors, who then banned their cultiva-  Mexican with a
     tion. In the late 1800’s, the vintners began to resurface and   white façade, ter-
     were pleased with how the grapes adapted to the climate of   ra cotta tile roof
     Baja California. For a long time the wines were pretty awful,   and arches in the
     but in the past twenty years this has changed. The current   front while at the
     new wave of this industry is still in its infancy. Winemakers   same time show-
     come from Argentina, Europe and the United States to cre-  ing the influence
     ate tasty and award winning wines.                       of what one
                                                              imagines desert
     The varieties of red wine produced in the Baja California   architecture of
     region are Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Cabernet, Zinfandel   the Middle East
     Grenache and Mission. The white wines are Chenin Blanc,   to look like.
     Palomino, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Saint
                                               March/April 2008
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