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Discovering the Baja California Wine Region
By Robin Dohrn-Simpson
“You go to the house with the three green arches and turn Emilion and Malaga. Wine in the Guadalupe Valley is an
right, follow the dirt road, through the vineyards, cross the international affair. Only 1% of the Mexican population drink
stream then follow the signs of the Kremlin. After about wine, therefore most wines are exported, both to the United
two miles you’ll see some large trees, that is the Russian States and to Europe.
Winery. You can’t miss it.” This is how it is winetasting in
Guadalupe Valley just outside of Ensenada,
Baja, Mexico.
So, we head off down the dirt road in what we
hope is the right way from the directions we
have just received in Spanish. It is fall and the
grapes have just been harvested, however
there is still some greenery remaining filling
out the rows upon rows of vines. The valley
sprawls for several miles and the surrounding
brown hills are dotted with olive trees. The
valley floor explodes with fall colors; rust,
orange, magenta and forest green. We have
come to enjoy the fruits of the harvest.
The Baja California Wine Coun-
try is a short 65 miles south of
6 San Diego and 10 miles north-
east of Ensenada and the Pacific
coast. The Ruta del Vino (Wine Route) is The wine world in Baja is unique unto itself, not trying
well marked with signs posted along the to be Tuscan or Californian. The architecture of the
highway directing you to different winer- wineries in Baja is classic Mexican with white walls,
ies. The area is comprised of three val- sharp-angled buildings and plenty of red brick arches
lining walkways.
leys: Calafia, Guadalupe and San Antonio One of my favor-
de las Minas and boasts 19 charming and ite buildings, the
diverse wineries. These wineries range Adobe Guadal-
upe Winery and
from small boutique-style family busi- B&B was
nesses to large industrialized operations. designed by
Nassir Haghigh-
at, a Persian ar-
Wines are not new to Mexico. Winemaking dates back to chitect. It is both
the Spanish conquistadors, who then banned their cultiva- Mexican with a
tion. In the late 1800’s, the vintners began to resurface and white façade, ter-
were pleased with how the grapes adapted to the climate of ra cotta tile roof
Baja California. For a long time the wines were pretty awful, and arches in the
but in the past twenty years this has changed. The current front while at the
new wave of this industry is still in its infancy. Winemakers same time show-
come from Argentina, Europe and the United States to cre- ing the influence
ate tasty and award winning wines. of what one
imagines desert
The varieties of red wine produced in the Baja California architecture of
region are Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Cabernet, Zinfandel the Middle East
Grenache and Mission. The white wines are Chenin Blanc, to look like.
Palomino, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Saint
March/April 2008