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Making Circularity a Reality: The Way Forward




                                                                                                                                        to promote such products is challenging. Several
                Several practices in the Textile & Apparel value chain, in some                                                         brands have stated that it is critical to identify
                                                                                                                                        easily implementable circular practices.
                way, contribute to the circular economy. However, significant                                                          l  Numerous trials are required at each stage of
                challenges and gaps continue to hinder implementing,                                                                    the value chain to launch a circular product

                formalizing and scaling and these novel circular practices.                                                             effectively. The current supply chain ecosystem is
                                                                                                                                        unable to execute such concepts on a larger
                                                                                                                                        scale.
                                                                                                                                     l  Modern textile recycling facilities require complex
              Scaling circularity: Understanding                     logistical system, due to absence of local                         technology and an enormous installation area.
              Challenges                                             recycling hubs.                                                    Hence only a few players are  in operation due to
                                                                  l  No harmonized sorting standards or criteria are                    the high initial investment.
                                                                                                                                                                                         Investing in Research and Development
                                                                     available in country, leading to difficulty in
              The challenges identified during the assessment
                                                                     establishing automated sorting technologies                     Educating & Creating Awareness for Value Chain      l   The textile industry is a traditional and
              have been organized into six categories. These
                                                                     for used-apparel that could contribute                          Stakeholders                                           conservative business, resistant to adapting to
              six categories are also action areas for achieving
                                                                     significantly and affordably to large-scale                     l   The current apparel design criteria exclude End-      new technologies and techniques. Only a few
              circularity in the Textile & Apparel industry.
                                                                     recycling systems. However, manual                                 of-Life disposal implications and recycling during       key players invest in R&D to produce alternative
              1. Waste Management
                                                                     sorting, which is labor-intensive and expensive,                   its lifecycle.                                      sustainable materials.
              2. Infrastructure
                                                                     creates limitation in upscaling post-consumer                   l   Many MSMEs lack the technical ability           l   It is challenging to find circular packaging
              3. Value Chain Stakeholder Education and
                                                                     waste recycling.                                                   and knowledge to apply circular processes           alternatives for the Textile & Apparel industry
                Awareness
                                                                  l  It is expensive for small- and medium-sized                        properly. They may not wholly comprehend the        because packaging manufacturers do less
              4. Government Policy
                                                                     enterprises (SMEs) to implement circular practices                 benefits of these practices and how to use them       research and development of such products.
              5. Research and Development
                                                                     because they lack the capital to invest in                         in an efficient and cost-effective manner.       l  Few sustainable textile dyestuffs, chemicals,
              6. Consumer Engagement
                                                                     advanced technology and processes.                              l  Suppliers find it challenging in collaboration with       and auxiliaries are available in the market and are
                                                                                                                                                                                            expensive. There is limited R&D undertaken to
                                                                  l  Polyester and other synthetic fibres are not                       buyers and handholding to achieve their long-
              Waste Management
                                                                     biodegradable and their recycling is still in                      term circularity goals. It is hard for them to find a       help boost industry acceptance of these
              l  Industries are not keen to invest in sustainable
                                                                     nascent stages.                                                    balance between economic production and             chemicals at an affordable price.
                 technologies.
                                                                  l  In some cases, there is no clear indication of the                 circular practices.
              l  The use of varied techniques and technologies
                                                                     precise composition of the fibres on the garment’s                                                                  Generating Consumer Awareness
                 for producing changing and client demand
                                                                     label, and in some cases, it is unavailable post                Getting support from the Government                 l   Consumers have limited awareness of the
                 complicate monitoring of production processes. It
                                                                     usage. This restricts the traceability and recycling            l   Existing regulations only support sustainability       environmental impact of apparel production and
                 is resulting in excess raw materials usage and the
                                                                     potential for post-consumer garments.                              components to a limited degree, while circularity       do not consider circularity as a key factor while
                 generation of more waste.
                                                                                                                                        is not yet addressed.                               making a purchase.
              l  There are no unified textile waste collection
                                                                  Building a Robust Infrastructure                                   l   Available guidelines (if any) are not comprehensive    l   Not all consumers will pay premium prices for
                 guidelines or standards for pre-and post-
                                                                  l  The online survey (Annexure 1) suggests that at                    for resource management and waste reduction.        circular products and presume recycled products
                 consumer waste. For example, materials must not
                                                                     the end-of-life phase of a product, a completely                l   There is lack of incentives such as tax breaks,       as inferior.
                 be soiled or contaminated to retain recyclability.
                                                                     new industry is required for collection of post-                   subsidies, or other forms of assistance linked to    l   Due to lack of ultimate disposal methods for non-
              l  The textile industry’s complex and pan-Indian
                                                                     consumer waste and redesigns/re-produce.                           implementing circularity practices                  usable textile articles, these end up in landfills as
                 presence makes it difficult to trace the origin of
                                                                  l  There is a lack of adequate infrastructure to                   l   There is absence of comprehensive guidelines       municipal waste rather than recycled.
                 materials and results in a complex and expensive
                                                                     support implementation of sustainable and                          to assist the textile industry in reducing hazardous    Approaching Circularity on 6 Priority
                                                                     circular production techniques and practices.                      chemical usage.                                  Action Areas
                                                                  l  The use of obsolete technology, and difficulty of
                                                                     separating different types of fibres pose obstacles
                                                                                                                                                                                         The circularity focal points were identified by
                                                                     to textile recycling and reuse.
                                                                                                                                                                                         observing current circularity practices across the
                                                                  l  A significant lack of waste management
                                                                                                                                                                                         value chain (Refer to Chapter 3). 
                                                                     infrastructure for waste collection and processing
                                                                     systems makes it challenging for the sector to
                                                                                                                                                                                         Circularity focal points are critical areas in the value
                                                                     recycle and reuse materials successfully.
                                                                                                                                                                                         chain, where circular practices can be focused in
                                                                  l  There is insufficient demand from consumers for
                                                                                                                                                                                         product design, energy consumption, production
                                                                     circular products. Therefore, the brand’s initiatives
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