Page 329 - French Polynesia

Hawaii Surfing: History, Religion and Culture

S urfing is one of the oldest practiced thousand years ago. The first surfers were T here is no exact record of when stand-
sports on the planet. The art of wave rid- fishermen who discovered riding waves as up surfing became a sport. It is known
ing, is a blend of total athleticism and the an efficient method of getting to shore with that during the 15th century, kings, queens
comprehension of the beauty and power of their catch . Eventually catching waves de- and people of the Sandwich Isles were big
nature. Surfing is also one of the few sports veloped from being part of everyday work to into the sport of “he’enalu” or wave-sliding,
that creates its own culture and lifestyle. The being a pastime. This change revolutionized in old Hawaiian. “He’e” means to change from
act of riding waves with a wooden board surfing. a solid form to a liquid form and “nalu” refers
originated in Western Polynesia over three to the surfing motion of a wave.