Page 330 - French Polynesia

arly historical records of surfing appear surf on Paipo (belly) boards. It was here in surfing ability, and their surfboards were
among their prized possessions.
E in the late 1700s, when Europeans and Hawaii that the art of standing and surfing
Polynesians made first contact in Tahiti. upright on long boards was invented. Riding T he Ancient Hawaiian people did not
consider surfing a mere recreational ac-
Navigator Captain James Cook described waves lying down or standing on long, hard- tivity, hobby, extreme sport, or career as it
is viewed today. Rather, the Hawaiian peo-
how a Tahitian caught waves with his out- wood surfboards was an integral part of Ha- ple integrated surfing into their culture and
made surfing more of an art than anything
rigger canoe just for the fun of it: “On walk- waiian culture. Surfboard riding was as lay- else.[citation needed] They referred to this
art as hee nalu which translates into English
ing one day about Matavai Point, where our ered into the society, religion and myth of as “wave sliding.” The art began before en-
tering the mysterious ocean as the Hawai-
tents were erected, I saw a man paddling in the islands. Many Ancient Hawaiian chants ians prayed to the gods for protection and
strength to undertake the powerful mysti-
a small canoe so quickly and looking about tell of christening surfboards, to the Gods to fying ocean. If the ocean was tamed, frus-
trated surfers would call upon the kahuna
him with such eagerness of each side. He make big waves for surfing and to give cour- (priest), who would aid them in a surfing
prayer asking the gods to deliver great surf.
then sat motionless and was carried along age to the men who rode these waves. Prior to entering the ocean, the priest would
also aid the surfers (mainly of the upper
at the same swift rate as the wave, till it class) in undertaking the spiritual ceremony
landed him upon the beach. Then he started of constructing a surfboard.
awaii was ruled by many different
Hout, emptied his canoe, and went in search Kapu (taboos). These kapu regulated

of another swell. I could not help concluding everything from where and what to eat to

that this man felt the most supreme pleas- learning how to build a good surfboard

ure while he was driven on so fast and so and how to convince the Gods to make the

smoothly by the sea.” surf good. Hawaiian society was very dis-

N o discusison about surfing is completely ac- tinct in separating the Ali’i (Royalty) from
cruate unless you explore the history of surf- the commoner. There were certain beaches
that the ali’i would surf on boards up to 24

ing in Hawaii that cause the revival of the sport feet long, while commoners would surf at

workd-wide. Polynesian’s began to make their different beaches and ride boards up to 12

way to the Hawaiian Island from Tahiti and feet long. Several of Hawaii’s most famous

the Marquesas. They brought many of their Chiefs including Kaumali’I the ruler of Kauai

customs with them including playing in the and Kamehameha I were renowned for their