Page 332 - French Polynesia

awaiians would carefully select one of as surfing. Some ancient sites still popular prayers and placed fish in a hole at the base

H three types of trees. The trees included today include Kahaluu Bay and Holualoa of the tree. Only once these rituals were
the koa (Acacia koa), ulu (Artocarpus altilis), Bay. Anthropologists can only guess at the completed could the tree be cut down for

and wiliwili (Erythrina sandwicensis) trees. origin and evolution of wave-riding and use as a surfboard. Surfing was not only a

Once selected, the surfer would dig the tree surfboard construction in Polynesian cul- sport for Hawaiians, but it was also an inte-

out and place fish in the hole as an offering ture, since there’s no certainty about the gral part of their society. Surfing was part

to the gods. Selected craftsman of the com- timeline and movements of the Polynesians. of the Kapu system of government on the

munity were then hired to shape, stain, and The history of surfing in Hawaii goes back to islands. This system maintained a sense of

prepare the board for the surfer. There were the 4th century A.D. order and societal classes.

three primary shapes: the olo, kikoo, and the T raditional Hawaiians believe that the S urfboards were divided into classes ac-
alaia. sea has distinct moods and actions. Spe- cording to the type of wood used and
cial priests, called Kahunas, would pray to the length of the boards. The largest and
T he olo is thick in the middle and gradu- the sea for the surfers. They also performed heaviest of surfboards were reserved strictly
ally gets thinner towards the edges. The
kikoo ranges in length from 12–18 feet (3.7– special dances and rituals intended to for Hawaiian royalty. Surfing was used as a

5.5 m) and requires great skill to maneuver. please the sea so she would reward the surf- means to settle disputes among the people.

The alaia board is around 9 feet (2.7 m) long ers with perfect waves. If surfers had good Wealth, social standing, land holdings and

and requires great skill to ride and master. waves that day, the people gave the credit even matters of the heart were all settled

Aside from the preparatory stages prior to to the priests who successfully pleased the with a surfing contest. The chief of the is-

entering the water, the most skilled surfers sea and were rewarded with powerful, per- land was by far the best surfer and he surfed

were often of the upper class and pastors fect waves. Creating surfboards is a religious regularly to maintain his standing in the

including chiefs and warriors that surfed ceremony in Hawaiian culture. community and keep up his strength and

amongst the best waves on the island. S urfers took special care in selecting a skill in the water.
These upper class Hawaiians gained respect tree for use as a surfboard. Once a surfer
through their enduring ability to master the

waves and this art the Hawaiians referred to selected the right tree, he recited special