Page 36 - My FlipBook 1

Rule No. 289 REMEMBER TO REMOVE ANY FACE
MASKS BEFORE YOUR FIRST SIP.

KUMIKO ter, potent, fruity, tropical,
To drink at Kumiko is to wit- etc. Instead of ordering
ness a personal journey into from a cocktail menu, I was
bartender Julia Momose’s instructed to select my
Japanese heritage. One desired mood (I went with
cocktail explores the sweet relax) and a range of flavors
potato; another is a nod to (I went with umami and
curry rice. All are revela- ginger) from this wheel. The
tory, but none so much as bartender would then con-
the spirit-free drinks—you jure something for me to
won’t miss the booze. 630 drink. I figured this was all
West Lake Street —K. S. some sort of gimmick until
I tasted my cocktail, which
CINCINNATI had been made with gin,
WÓDKA BAR lime, and a pho syrup—yes,
The very existence of a bar the Vietnamese soup. It
devoted to vodka feels like a was absurdly delicious, and
As you sit in a round, red banquette or sip an ice-cold Hite at the horseshoe bar,
rebuke to all the bartenders it was then I decided this
who’ve scoffed at the spirit. is a next-wave mystic
But this spot takes the defi- temple of cocktailing. 710
ance a step further, offering Jefferson Avenue —J. G.
shots of vodka infused with
THE BEST BARS IN AMERICA, 2020 her mark selling pierogies menu when I took my seat
(among other things) man-
COLUMBUS, OHIO
you will wonder: Where have you been all of my life?
goes and peanut brittle.
LAW BIRD
The first words I saw on the
Owner Sarah Dworak made
out of an actual hole in the
at Law Bird over the winter:
“Start with a $5 Mini
wall, and then expanded
Martini.” I instantly felt at
that enterprise into Wódka
Bar, whose food menu
home. But there aren’t
many homes in which
abounds with drinking
you’ll find a five-buck mar-
snacks like kielbasa and
tini better than this one,
smoked herring. 1200 Main
Street —Jeff Gordinier
style with Roku gin, two
white vermouths (Comoz
CLEVELAND
and Miro), and olive and
HAPPY DOG deftly balanced in 50/50
That’s Elvis Costello, kid, lemon bitters. The cocktail
and that’s Joe Strummer. list slowly reveals itself to
Willie Nelson’s over there. be one of the most creative
We’re talking about pic- in the country, but the
tures of these musical rene- bartenders are modest
gades, but their spirits and Midwestern about it.
imbue every inch of the Home, sweet home. 740
place. Happy Dog is a rock South High Street —J. G.
’n’ roll bar to its bones, with
Christmas lights and a DISNEY WORLD
no-bullshit beer list. You OGA’S CANTINA
can order hot dogs topped For many, the first memory
with SpaghettiOs and Froot of a bar is likely Episode CHRISTOPHER GRIFFITH (BOTTLE CAPS). GARY HE (DRINK). LIZ KUBALL (THE PRINCE).
Loops. We’d steer you
toward the “alien” relish,
which glows green. 5801
Detroit Avenue —J. G.
THE SPOTTED OWL
I was staring at a paper
wheel that looked like a
scrap of Ouija board. The
from top: Go genuine old-school at the Prince in L.A., or wonderfully weird with the Purrrfect
cocktail at New York’s Undercote—it has catnip-infused vodka. wheel had words on it: bit-
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