Page 249 - The Tigris Expedition
P. 249

The Tigris Expedition
                      further news about the temple mound, when 1 had a surprise visit
                      from Paolo Costa and his wife Gcrmana to my home in Italy. They
                      had then started to excavate the big mound at Tawi Arja. The
                      centuries of exposure that had eroded the structure itself had not
                      managed to accumulate humus strata on the hard-packed surface of
                      the wind-swept and occasionally flood-washed plains on which it
                      stood, and neither potsherds nor other datable remains older than
                      the Moslem period had been found. But under the dirt on top of the
                      pyramid Costa had found the badly eroded remains of a foundation
        i
                      wall of adobe: a small edifice or erection of some sort had stood on
                      the summit platform, built from big square, sun-dried bricks of the
        I             type used in ancient Mesopotamia.
                         As a cautious scholar he refrained from any hasty deductions for
                       lack of conclusive evidence. There was neither carbon nor written
                       tablets to help date the strange structure. It remained unique in the
                       Arabian peninsula, alone as a huge non-Moslem edifice in an area
                       with forty-six old, abandoned copper mines, the only copper
                       within reasonable reach of merchant  mariners from Ur in
                       Mesopotamia and their trading partners  on the gulf island of
                       Bahrain.
                         But even if no Sumerian vase is ever found in the barren
                       landscape of the wadi and the surrounding mines, geography and
                       geology combine to argue with rather conclusive strength that
                       northern Oman was the copper country of Makan to the old
                       Sumerians. There is no competitor for that honour in the gulf area.
                        It is anyone’s right to speculate as to the identity of the seemingly
                        misplaced mini-ziggurat at Tawi Arja. An enormous amount of
                        labour had been put into its construction. It was not a fort and not an
                        Arab mosque, but it had all the aspects of a ceremonial structure and
                        one  known in the Old World only in Mesopotamia, with a single
                        exception in the recently excavated Dilmun mini-ziggurat on
                        Bahrain. We ourselves had sailed a Sumerian ship from Bahrain to
                        the ocean coast of Oman. In Sumerian terms, we had sailed a
                        ma-gur from Dilmun to Makan. It would seem hard to find a
                        theory more plausible than to suspect that the unidentified structure
                        discovered by the mining prospectors at Tawi Arja had been built
                        by, or for the service of, the sun-worshipping merchant mariners
      I                 from the great civilisations in the twin-river country, who had
                        come here in large numbers because it  was the nearest site for
                        mining and smelting copper.
                          None of the vestiges of prehistoric ingenuity we saw in Oman
                        impressed us more than the subterranean falaj. In an area where a

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