Page 18 - Dez2017

Rioja-typisch: Tinas, die großen Holztanks und die 225-Liter-Bordeaux-Fässer.
Typical for Rioja: the big Tinas and 225 ltr Bordeaux barrels.
zeitlich an. Die großen eleganten Weine verbringen Jahre im Fass, ohne dass später beim Genuss der Holzhammer zurschlägt.
Im Regal liegen seit vielen Jahren die Joven (36 Prozent) und Crianza (42 Prozent) in der Käufergunst ganz vorn. Eine wachsende Anzahl zumeist jüngerer Produzenten ist hingegen der Meinung, dass Mutter Erde als ergänzende Möglichkeit in die Klassi kationen mit ein ießen soll. Wohlmöglich wird hier ein ganz besonderer Einzellagentanz eröffnet, wenn man bedenkt, dass die Größe von über 80 Prozent der Parzellen, der aktuell 63’593 Hektar kontrollierter Anbau äche gerade einmal einen Hektar beträgt.
„Uns ist wichtig, dass die hiesigen Dörfer, das lokale Terroir und somit auch die hart arbeitenden Produzenten eine Erwähnung nden“, so Telmo Rodríguez vom Familienweingut Remelluri.
Seit Juni 2017 sind ergänzende Änderungen vom Kontrollrat beschlossen und die ersten Bodegas haben bereits die neuen Klassi zierungen beantragt. Sollten diese nach eingehenden Prüfungen den Regularien entsprechen, dürften die ersten Flaschen der Kategorien Vinos del pueplo und Vinos del municipio (Dorf- und Ortsweine) für den 2017er Jahrgang als Jungweine auf den Markt kommen. Dies gilt dann nach entsprechender Reifezeit auch für die höheren
Another advantage comes directly from its name. Tempranillo - the early morning - is ready to be harvested before all other grape varieties. In classical Rioja Cuveé it is the main protagonist alongside Graciano, Mazuelo, and Garnacha tinta. Since 2009, the Maturana Tinta has also been approved.
Although the Rioja has produced legendary white wines, mostly made from Viura and Malvasia, it still does not enjoy the same status as the reds. For some years now people have been paying more attention to it. In addition to the Viura, Malvasia, Garnacha blanca, Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, and Verdejo, since 2009 the Maturana blanca, Turruntés, and Tempranillo blanco have also been approved.
Friends of the white and rosé sparkling wines, which are produced according to the traditional system, will also get their money’s worth here. This is also partially done under the appellation Cava. In the Rioja Alavesa, the production of wines from the carbonic maceration has also been maintained for a long time. These wines are young, fresh, and fruity.
Since the mid-1990s, the production area has grown as well as the number of newer companies of various sizes. Some continue the traditional style, while others turn to what is today considered modern. In contrast to the classically slim and light wines, emphasis is placed here on a greater depth of colour, a more opulent fruity body, and newer wood when developing. This produces very cleanly made, international-looking wines, but which occasionally seem a little uniform.
Those looking for a comparison of both philosophies at the highest level will nd something in the city of Haro, for example. The buildings of Lopez de Heredia are door to door here as a representative of the traditional style and the Bodegas Roda, which follow a more modern interpretation.
It is certainly very fortunate that the wines by traditional producers have been gaining in popularity for some years now. Those who use to have older vintages in glass understand why. These wines have excellent aging potential. This is not least because of their solid acidity and the already mentioned slimness. Where woody jam hammers already bless the passage of time, these wines are just beginning to achieve their peak.
A trip through the Rioja is always worthwhile, whether in spring, when the landscape is freshly green, or in autumn when it radiates in numerous colours. Those who plan on spending a little more time exploring the famed 7 valleys along the Oja,
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