Page 54 - Chiense TExtiles, MET MUSEUM Pub 1934
P. 54

THE  METROPOLITAN  MUSEUM  OF  ART

                    being superimposed  on  the  brocade-like  pattern of the
                    background.  Among other  examples  of this  embroid-
                    ery in the collection are a pair of imperial chair covers
                    and  a  small  panel  of  floral  design.  In  almost  every
                    case  the  embroidery is  used  for  both  design  and  back-
                    ground.
                      The petit-point stitch is beautifully exemplified in the
                    Museum collection on one of the most prized imperial
                    robes  from  the  Paul  Bequest.  A  full  illustration  is  not
                    given,  since  the  color  contrasts  are  so  slightly  defined
                    that  no idea  of  the  beauty  of the  robe  can  be  gained
                    through a halftone, but a detail is illustrated in figure 12
                   which does show something of the stitch used. The em-
                   broidery is done in unusually somber tones for  the Chi-
                   nese,  but  with  their happy  instinct for  color  harmony
                   there evolves from the somberness a softly beautiful gar-
                   ment with dull gold dragons gleaming against the neu-
                   tral ground. The design of the body is in small conven-
                   tionalized  patterns,  mostly  worked  in outline,  so  that,
                   although the embroidery covers every inch of the robe,
                   the  soft  gauziness  is  retained.  This  eighteenth-century
                   robe is  one of the few gauze robes of so  early a date in
                   the collection. A group of twentieth-century ones, most
                   of them with embroidered patterns done in petit-point,
                   Florentine, and  other stitches, represent  women's sum-
                  mer  robes  as  they  are  worn  today.  These  are  in vivid
                  colors,  many of which  were  obviously  produced  from
                  Western dyes.
                    An emperor's  sacrificial  robe  from  the  collection  of

                                          44
   49   50   51   52   53   54   55   56   57   58   59