Page 49 - Chiense TExtiles, MET MUSEUM Pub 1934
P. 49

CHINESE  TEXTILES
           In illustrating embroidery stitches from our collection
         we have taken a large number of our examples from the
         mandarin squares  (civil and military insignia). This is
         partly  because  every  embroidery  stitch  known  to  tl1e
         Chinese is  to be found  on these squares, and pard y be-
         cause the embroidery is  usually more clear-cut and the
         design more  unified  than on larger pieces.  In order to
         get the best example of each stitch, we had unfortunate-
         ly to illustrate duplicates of the insignia in some cases. 9
           Several  Ming  hangings  from  the  Havemeyer  Col-
         lection  combine  the  couching and  satin stitches. With
         their  designs  of bold  floral  patterns  interspersed  with
         the most amazing birds and animals, they have, despite
         their badly worn condition, a grandeur and richness of
         color  which are  characteristic of the  Ming period.  No
         illustrations  of  these  hangings  were  included  since  a
        small reproduction could not do them credit.
          Another Ming piece which shows the same two stitches -
        is  the mandarin square represented in figure  8.  Here a
        solid background of couched gold thread makes a mag-
        nificent setting for  the · egret and  the  cloud,  wave,  and
        mountain motives embroidered in satin stitch. We have
                                                       10
        but one other example of this early type  of square  in
         9
          The  symbolism  of  these  insignia  and  of the  designs  on  the
        robes  is  discussed  in  the section on court robes.
        10
          The collection on  loan  at the Gallery of Fine Arts, Yale Uni-
        versity,  mentioned  on  page  63,  has  the finest  Ming  squares  we
        have  ever  seen,  as  well  a  many other  early  and  unusual  types
        not represented  in our collection.

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