Page 176 - Christies IMportant Chinese Art Sept 26 2020 NYC

Fig. 1 An apricot-yellow silk
floss-padded `dragon’ robe,
longpao, Yongzheng period
(1723-1735), 144 cm. long,
Qing Court Collection,
The Palace Museum, Beijing,
© The Palace Museum.

title Xiaojingxian. In the four years before his death in 1735, the Yongzheng 元1722至1735年) 製品。另一例是明尼阿波利斯美術館藏緞
emperor elevated no other consort to the position of empress. 地緯花袍 (館藏號41.74.2)，其黃緞之上的紋樣也與本拍品極
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為接近。 這件源自鐵達尼號倖存者 —— 紐約劇院製作人
There are only two comparable supplemental weft-patterned satin jifu for Irene Wallace (即Henry B. Harris夫人) 舊藏的袍服，提供了
women dating from the early 18th century known to this writer. The cartoon
一個很有意思的比照物。該袍的領和袖端均有繡紋，而故宮
pattern used for an apricot-yellow satin robe in the Gugong collection
藏品則是緯地起花。本拍品的領與襟邊繡團龍紋，以石青絲
5
is nearly identical to the dragon robe in this sale. (Fig.1) Although the
緞為地。同一件宮廷袍服混合刺繡與緯花工藝的例子雖不多
Gugong robe bears a paper tag inscribed with the date of its inclusion in
見，但看來這應是裁作者的初始設計。
the collection of Qing imperial dress of Qianlong 32 (1767), the garment is
acknowledged as dating from the Yongzheng period (1722-1735). Another
supplemental weft-patterned satin jifu with a closely related pattern 本拍品原來的接袖與袖端均已佚失，用新材續補之後，終能
cartoon on a yellow satin ground is in the collection of the Minneapolis 一窺原作神采。故宮珍藏中尚有一例深藍緞地繡龍袍，其
Institute of the Arts (41.74.2). This robe, acquired from Titanic survivor Irene 領、袖端與鑲邊的團龍紋皆與本拍品相若，補綴部份的龍紋
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Wallace (Mrs. Henry B. Harris), the New York theater producer, offers an 一概以之為準。 7
interesting parallel. Its neck facings and cuffs are embroidered, rather than
supplemental weft-pattern as seen in the Gugong robe. The neck and front
翁樂涵 (John E. Vollmer)
overlap facing on the robe in the sale, are also of the period the coat body,
is embroidered with dragon roundels on nearly black-blue silk satin. While
the mixture of embroidered and supplemental weft-patterned fabrics on the
same imperial court garment is unusual, it seems to have been part of this
robe since the garment was initially tailored.
The visual impact of the original robe has been restored by recreating
the missing sleeve extension and cuff configuration with contemporary
materials. A second example from the Gugong collection, Beijing—an
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embroidered dark blue satin jifu —with comparable dragon roundel-
decorated facings, cuffs and bands, served as a guide for the placement of
the dragon ornaments on the replacement pieces.
John E. Vollmer, New York
1 Draft History of [the] Qing [dynasty] (Qing shi gao), vol. 103, section 24. https://ctext. 1 詳見《清史稿》(https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=gb&chapter=674292，於
org/wiki.pl?if=gb=674292 (accessed November 10, 2019) Section 24. 2019年11月10日登錄)，見卷103第24節。
2 出處同上，詳見第49節。
2 Ibid., Section 49
3 出處同上，詳見第162節。
3 Ibid., Section 162
4 蕭虹與A. D. Stefanowska出任總編輯的《Biographical Dictionary of
4 Lee, Lily Xiao Hong and A. D. Stefanowska (editors-in-chief), Biographical Dictionary
Chinese Women: The Qing Period 1644-1911》頁350-351 (倫敦及
of Chinese Women: The Qing Period 1644-1911, London and New York: Routledge Taylor 紐約：Routledge Taylor & Francis Group，2015)。
& Francis Group, 2015, pp. 350-351. 5 詳見北京故宮博物院出版的《故宮博物院藏文物珍品全集51：清
5 Palace Museum, Beijing, Gugong bowuyuan cang wenwu zhenpin quanji 51: Qingdai 代宮廷服飾》頁153-154編號93 (香港：商務印書館)。
Gongting Fushi, [The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace 51: Costumes 6 詳見Jacobson, Robert D著於2000年的《Imperial Silks: Ch’ing
and Accessories of Emperor and Empresses of the Qing Dynasty], Hong Kong: The Dynasty Textile in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts》卷一 頁132-133
編號37 (館藏號41.74.2)。
Commercial Press Ltd., no. 93, pp. 153-154.
7 出處同上，圖見頁157編號96。
6 Jacobsen, Robert D., Imperial Silks: Ch’ing Dynasty Textiles in the Minneapolis Institute
of Arts, Vol. 1, 2000, no. 37, pp. 132-133, acc. no. 41.74.2
7 Ibid., no. 96, pp. 157.