Page 384 - JAPAN THE SHAPING OFDAIMYO CULTURE 1185-1868

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the phoenix and paulownia originated in 301 Kataginu and mallet on brown-dyed hemp. Above
China, the former signifying the benevo- stenciled paste-resist dyeing on hemp the radish on the back is the dandelion en-
lent ruler and the well-ordered realm, the i. 97.8(38^) closed in a flattened lozenge, a crest often
latter serving as the bird's nesting place W. 124.2 (48 /z) found on Kyôgen costumes. Cat. 301 has a
l
and food. The motif was favored in Japan Edo period, icth century design of black cart wheels entwined with
from the Heian period and sometimes morning-glories against a reserved back-
used for No kariginu. KS Eisei Bunko, Tokyo ground of white hemp.
This kataginu is entered in an 1840
The kataginu, literally "shoulder robe/' is a
300 Kataginu sleeveless jacket used in Kyôgen, the record passed down through the Hoso-
narabini
Onnd
kodd-
kawa family, the
ishd
paste-resist dyeing on hemp comic interlude performed between No guchd (Book of No Costume and Stage
1. 82.0 (32) plays. In contrast to the subtle and austere Properties), which establishes a date be-
w. 136.4 (531/ 4) No, which deals with high and mostly fore which it must have been made. KS
Edo period, icth century tragic subjects, Kyogen portrays manners
and concerns of the commoners with
Eisei Bunko, Tokyo broad humor. While Kyôgen costumes are
not richly ornate like those of No, they are
embellished with bold and freely drawn
designs, often of unusual motifs.
On cat. 300, reserved in white by
means of resist paste, are a large radish

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