Page 387 - JAPAN THE SHAPING OFDAIMYO CULTURE 1185-1868
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302  Koshiobi
            embroidery  and  gold leaf on  silk
            1. 264.5 (103 Vs)
            w. 7.3 (2 3/ 4)
            Edo period, icth century
            Eisei Bunko, Tokyo


         303  Koshiobi
            embroidery on  silk
            1.215.5(84)
            w. 7.2 (2 3/ 4)
            Edo period,  iQth  century
            Eisei Bunko, Tokyo
         The  koshiobi, or "waist  sash," was used  to
         secure  such No costumes  as the  kariginu
         and various outer  robes  worn  koshimaki
         style, that  is, off the  shoulders and  arms.
         Designs appear on the  sections that are
         visible when the  sash is worn, including
         those at the waist and those that hang
         down from  the knot tied in front. On  cat.
         302, a design of cherry blossoms has been
         embroidered  over gold leaf glued onto red
         silk. This type of sash was called  ddhaku
         koshiobi in reference  to the  extensive
         pasted-on gold leaf (cat. 295). Cat.  303 is
         embroidered  with arrows and the  seigaiha
         stylized wave motif (cat. 294) on  a blue  silk
         background. This koshiobi, which  has no
         red  on it (cats. 292, 293), was probably
         worn by an actor playing the  role of a
         middle-aged or elderly woman.  KS

         304  Katsuraobi
            embroidery on  silk
            1. 254.0 (99)
            W. 3.5 (13/8)
            Edo period,  19th  century
            Eisei Bunko, Tokyo

         305  Katsuraobi
            gold leaf on  silk
            1.237.5(925/8)
            W. 3.5 (13/8)
            Edo period, i9th century
            Eisei Bunko, Tokyo                     302                               303

         306 Katsuraobi
            embroidery and  gold leaf on  silk
            1.239.1(931/4)                   Decoration,  usually embroidered,  is con-  308  Chukei  fan
             w. 3.8(1'A)                     centrated  on the section  that  covers the  ink, color, and  gold leaf on  paper;
             Edo period, i9th  century       forehead and the long portions that hang  bamboo,  lacquer
                                             down from the knot  in back. The  katsu-  1.35.0(133/4)
             Eisei Bunko, Tokyo
                                             raobi with cherry blossoms (cat. 306) and  Edo period, i8th century
                                             the one with the water plantain and pick-
         307  Katsuraobi                     erel weed design (cat. 304) are of the  iroiri  Eisei Bunko, Tokyo
            embroidery  on  silk             type (cats. 292, 293), meaning that  red is
            1.242.3(941/2)                   used, and they are worn for young female  309  Chùkei  fan
             w. 3.7(1^/2)                    roles. The  katsuraobi with the  willow and  ink, color, and  gold leaf on  paper;
             Edo period,  1910 century       snow disk design (cat. 307) is ironashi, or  bamboo,  lacquer
             Eisei Bunko, Tokyo              without  red, and  is used  in middle-aged or  1.33.0(13)
                                             elderly female roles. The  katsuraobi with  Edo period, i9th century
         Used exclusively for female roles in No,  the  "fish  scale" design of triangles (cat.  Eisei Bunko, Tokyo
         the  katsuraobi is a sash tied over the  wig.  305) is worn by female characters  driven
                                             mad  by jealousy.              KS



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