Page 106 - Bonhams, FIne Chinese Art, Linda Wrigglesworth Collection, May 13, 2021 London

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A DARK-BLUE OFFICIAL’S SURCOAT, Qing Court officials could be recognised The wild goose, shown in a finely-delineated
BUFU, AND A PAIR OF ‘WILD GOOSE’ by their court surcoat, or outer coat bufu, terrestrial diagram interspersed with the Eight
RANK BADGES, BUZI such as the present example. A pair of Buddhist Symbols, corresponds to the fourth
19th century identical insignia badges puzi, were stitched rank civil official. Although the Manchu, on
Elegantly fashioned from rich dark-blue silk respectively on the back and chest of the assuming power, made a break in Chinese
with front, back and side vents and a front garment, indicating the rank of the wearer. tradition and retained their own national
opening fastened with gilt buttons, with bright costume, in 1652, they brought back the Ming
blue lining, 159cm (62 5/8in) wide x 113.5cm Following the Imperial Regulations, edited in custom of indicating rank by insignia squares,
(44 5/8in) long; the rank badges made of 1759 by the Qianlong emperor, calf-length, demarcating the nine ranks civil officials by
colourful and rare appliqué silk kesi, each centre-fastening surcoats became mandatory birds embroidered on the squares and the
depicting a wild goose for the Fourth Civil for formal occasions. All who appeared at military mandarins by animals.
Rank, the bird standing atop a rock arising court were required to wear a bufu, which
from foaming waves interspersed with the was made of either dark blue or purple-black Compare with a related dark-blue satin
Eight Buddhist Emblems bajixiang above satin. It was loose-fitting, opening down the surcoat, 19th century, lined with pale blue
rolling waves, all reserved on a ground of wan centre front, and had side and back vents. silk lining, in the collection of the Victoria
diaper and embroidered in very fine counted The three-quarter-length sleeves and the fact and Albert Museum, London, acc.no.T.104-
stitch, 25.5cm (10in) x 24cm (9 1/2in). (3). that the coat reached mid-calf enabled the 1958. Another midnight-blue, blue-lined
official to show off the sleeves extensions, the surcoat, Tongzhi, circa 1870, is illustrated by
£2,000 - 3,000 horseshoe-shaped cuffs and the lishui hem of L.Wrigglesworth, The Badge of Rank, London,
CNY18,000 - 27,000 the ‘court’ or ‘dragon’ robes underneath. In 1996, p.9.
addition, the simple shape of the coat made
it an ideal ‘canvas’ for the badges of the rank See also a pair of related kesi ‘goose’ badges,
十九世紀 文官服 及 緙絲雲雁紋四品文官補 attached to the front and back; see V.Garrett, 19th century, formerly with Jacqueline Simcox,
子一對 Chinese Dress From the Qing Dynasty to which was sold at Christie’s London, 15 May
Present, North Clarendon VT, 2008, p.75. 2013, lot 727.
Provenance: Linda Wrigglesworth, 1994

來源：英國Linda Wrigglesworth，1994年

For details of the charges payable in addition to the final Hammer Price of each Lot
102 | BONHAMS please refer to paragraphs 7 & 8 of the Notice to Bidders at the back of the catalogue.