Page 54 - Learning How to Photograph with your DSLR Camera 2nd Edition Jan 2021

While in New Jersey I took this
photo of the monument at High
Point State Park. I wanted
everything in focus and a faster
shutter speed to compensate
for some light wind that was
moving the branches slightly. I
bumped the ISO up as it was
overcast.

High Point State Park, NJ 20 mm at 1/320, f/13,
ISO 200

With modern DSLRs you can use a higher ISO before you start to see some noise in your
image. For landscapes and portraits, I try to keep the ISO as low as possible, but if the
image is too dark and I do not want to change my shutter speed or aperture, it’s the best
option.

Making Setting Changes

So far, we have learned that different settings can yield a proper exposure with different
visual appeal. What I want you to understand, as this is especially important, is that in
manual if you make a change in Shutter Speed, Aperture, or ISO, you need to make a
compensatory change.

Let me explain. You took your shot, and you are pleased with your exposure, however,
the shutter speed was not fast enough to freeze the action of your subject. The logical
thing to do is to increase the shutter speed.

After you do that you notice now your image is too dark. Remember, you just stopped
the lens down and reduced the light by half with each stop increase. Your shutter was
open for less time than your first shot making the image darker.
To compensate for this, anytime we make a change in shutter speed, aperture or ISO, we
need to make a compensatory change.
For example: If you were shooting at a shutter speed of 1/500, but found you needed to
increase it say 2 stops (less light coming in now), you would have to brighten the image
by changing your aperture and/or ISO to compensate for that 2 stop loss of light.

With that compensatory change, you should have a proper exposure.

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