Page 239 - Mario Bigon "The Morrow Guide to Knots"

GUIDE KNOT

This is actually a figure-eight
knot (see pp. 31-35) formed
in the bight of a rope, but we
have included it here, because
it is so popular with mountain
guides. Other safety knots
that can be used in
mountaineering can be found
in the sections dealing with
ioops (pp. 67-98) and
hitches (pp. 39-66).

Method
Middle the rope (1), and,
allowing a long enough bight
for the loop desired. twist the
rope with the right hand,
taking care not to alter the
parallel arrangement of the
rope (2, 3). Pass the bight (4)
through the eye of the twist
(5) to produce a perfectly
balanced and ordered figure-
eight knot. Check the knot,
adjust the loop to fit around
thewaisl, and tighten (6).

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