Page 19 - The Decorative Painter Winter 2015
P. 19

 ACRYLIC
  FACE, HANDS, AND HAIR
Basecoat the face and hands with Mulled Rose. Lightly transfer the details of the face using gray graphite paper. Use a no. 6 domed round blender to drybrush highlights on the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, and hands with Skin Tone Base. Brighten the highlights on the forehead, end of nose, and upper cheeks by adding a bit of Warm White to the brush and drybrushing a light layer over the previous highlights. Also, use a no. 12 flat to float a small highlight in the area right above the upper lip with Skin Tone Base.
Basecoat the whites of the eyes and the teeth with Warm White. Basecoat the iris of each eye with Leaf. Use Burnt Umber to basecoat the pupils, and line the eyelids and stroke the eyelashes. Basecoat the lips with Red Earth. Use a no. 3 round and Rose Pink to drybrush the small highlights on the left side of both the upper and lower lips. Then brighten the highlights on the lips with a touch of the Light Pink Mix. Use a no. 5/0 script liner and Burnt Umber to line the corners of the mouth, slightly up the edges of the top lip, under the top lip, and slightly under the bottom lip. Use a no. 3 round and the Light Leaf Mix to drybrush highlights on the iris of each eye. Then brighten the same high- lights with a bit of Warm White added to your brush. Next, use Leaf and a large stylus to add the larger highlight dots to each eye. Let dry. Repeat the highlights with smaller dots of Warm White.
Add a layer of Jo Sonja’s Clear Glazing Medium over the face to set the paint and let dry. Use a no. 12 flat to float shading on top of the forehead with the Skin Shading Mix. Then brighten the highlight at the end of the nose with a float of Warm White. Use Rose Pink and the no. 10 domed round blender to lightly drybrush the rosy cheeks and ends of the hands. Line the eyebrows with Brown Earth. Basecoat the hair with Brown Earth. Use Marigold and a no. 6 oval drybrush to drybrush the highlights on the hair.
BOTTOM BASE
Basecoat the bottom base with Olive Green. Drybrush highlights around and on top of the base with Leaf. Use white graphite paper to transfer the leaf design. Basecoat the leaves with Mustard Seed. Use a no. 12 flat to float shading on the base of each leaf with Brown Earth.
Float highlights on just the upper leaves with Turners Yellow. Use the no. 5/0 script liner to line the stems with Burnt Umber. Use a small stylus and Mustard Seed to add a small dot close to the tip of each leaf.
TURKEY
Basecoat the main round body and the 11-inch piece of braided macramé cord with Burnt Umber and let dry. Set the macramé cord aside for later. Use the no. 10 domed round blender to drybrush highlights on the main body with Brown Earth. Use the same brush and a touch of Fawn to brighten the highlights.
Use gray graphite paper to transfer the main lines of the tail feathers. To make the transfer process a bit easier, you can cut the tail feather pattern so it fits around the body of the turkey. Basecoat the top line of yellow tail feathers with Mustard Seed. Use a no. 6 domed round blender and Turners Yellow to drybrush the various highlights along that line of feathers. Basecoat the middle line of feathers with the Tingel’s Mix. Then drybrush the various highlights along the blue line of feathers with the Light Tin- gel’s Mix. Add a touch of Warm White to your brush and brighten the blue highlights. Next, basecoat the orange line of feathers with Norwegian Orange. Use Tiger Lily and the no. 6 and 10 domed round blenders to drybrush bright highlights down the center of each orange feather. Wipe off the same brushes and use them to further brighten each highlight with a touch of Turners Yellow. Apply a thin coat of Jo Sonja’s Clear Glazing
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