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A10   WORLD NEWS
                    Thursday 21 June 2018

            Volgograd provides the proper perspective at World Cup



            By PAN PYLAS                                                                                                        Mitterrand  bequeathed  to
            Associated Press                                                                                                    the city in 1984.
            VOLGOGRAD,  Russia  (AP)                                                                                            The horrors of the Battle of
            —  Nearly  60  years  since  it                                                                                     Stalingrad  are  clear,  but
            changed  its  name  to  Vol-                                                                                        there's  no  antagonism  to-
            gograd,  the  Russian  city                                                                                         wards the Germans.
            once called Stalingrad and                                                                                          In  a  cemetery  some  40
            its bloody history loom large                                                                                       miles  northwest  of  Volgo-
            even in the midst of the fun                                                                                        grad in Rossoshka, there's a
            and  football  of  the  World                                                                                       dignified cemetery for Ger-
            Cup.                                                                                                                man soldiers who perished
            Stalingrad, the name of the                                                                                         at  Stalingrad  and  nearby
            city on the Volga river be-                                                                                         Rostov-on-Don.
            tween 1925 and 1961, is now                                                                                         Local  historian  Svetlana
            often shorthand for one of                                                                                          Kostrykina  writes  in  a  local
            the  most  violent  battles  in                                                                                     travel  guide  that    52,000
            history. The exact death toll                                                                                       of  them  are  buried  in  two
            can  never  be  known,  but                                                                                         mass  graves  and  that  an-
            historians  believe  about  a                                                                                       other   120,000   Germans
            million  people  from  both                                                                                         thought  to  be  missing  are
            sides died that savage win-                                                                                         inscribed  on  rectangular
            ter of 1942-3 when the Nazi                                                                                         panels  around  the  site,
            war machine was stopped                                                                                             "like  huge  dice  lost  in  the
            from  crossing  the  Volga,                                                                                         steppe."
            then  surrounded  and  de-                                                                                          Vitaly Danilkin, as grizzled a
            feated.                                                                                                             72-year-old as you are likely
            The  city  was  basically  re-                                                                                      to see, cares for the site as
            duced  to  rubble  and  its                                                                                         well  as  a  Soviet  cemetery
            modern-day  residents  will                                                                                         on  the  other  side  of  the
            forever remember the sac-                                                                                           road.  Cutting  the  grass  in
            rifices of their ancestors.                                                                                         the  summer,  and  clearing
            "It's  sacred  for  us  because                                                                                     the snow in winter, Danilkin
            in every family in the Volgo-                                                                                       is always on the lookout for
            grad region, there are peo-                                                                                         war-related  artifacts.  His
            ple who died in the battle                                                                                          43-year-old son, Alexei, with
            and  we  mustn't  forget                                                                                            the permission of the state,
            about it and every year we                                                                                          runs a small team that does
            do patriotic action and do                                                                                          exactly that and is alert to
            some lessons for children so                                                                                        anyone illegally looking for
            they know all about it," said                                                                                       memorabilia  —  there's  a
            21-year-old  Daria  Kolomy-                                                                                         big black market for Stalin-
            ichenko.                     In  this  photo  taken  on  Sunday,  June  17,  2018,  graves  of  Russian  soldiers  in  a  cemetery  near   grad-related helmets, guns,
            "It's our history and we are   Stalingrad in Rossoshka, Russia.                                                     medals and tags.
            very proud."                                                                                       Associated Press  Vitaly,  who  has  been  do-
            To visitors, particularly from                                                                                      ing  his  job  for  three  years,
            nations that fought against  the Hero City — the honor  thorities  more  or  less  en-  Russia  may  be  facing  in-  said he's the only one who
            the  Nazis,  the  monuments  granted by the then-Soviet  shrined  the  hill's  status  as  ternational  censure  for  its  would  do  it  for  "only  7,000
            around the city — especial-  Union — Volgograd is now  sacred. A collection of me-     annexation  of  the  Crimea  rubles  a  month"  when  he
            ly  the  85-meter  (280-foot)  a  thriving  regional  center,  morials  and  outsized  struc-  Peninsula  from  Ukraine,  for  was  hired.  He  has  since
            statue known as "The Moth-   bustling  with  attractions,  tures  on  the  hill  include  a  its  alleged  role  in  the  poi-  gotten  a  raise  to  9,000  ru-
            erland  Calls"—  are  also  a  parks  and  visitors.  There  is  granite  pool,  an  eternal  soning of an ex-Russian spy  bles ($140) a month.
            reminder that the sacrifices  more  than  enough  to  ap-  flame and mass graves. But  and  his  daughter  in  south-  "Someone has to do it," said
            of  Russians  at  Stalingrad  preciate  to  ignore  the  oc-  it's the sculpture on the top  ern England and meddling  Vitaly.
            were  crucial  to  the  Allies  casional swarms of flies and  that  draws  one's  breath.  in the U.S. election, but visi-  For those few who still have
            winning  World  War  II.  With  mosquitoes  that  hounded  The Motherland Calls casts  tors from all over the world  a connection with the bat-
            Britain  and  Russia  feuding  fans as England beat Tuni-  a  long  shadow  across  the  are reminded of the mag-   tle, the pain remains.
            politically, the English team  sia 2-1 at Volgograd Arena  city.                       nitude  of  the  nation's  role  Just a few months ago, Vi-
            played  their  first  match  of  Monday night             England  fans  also  joined  in  World  War  II,  regardless  taly saw an elderly lady de-
            the  World  Cup  in  Volgo-  The stadium was construct-   with  dignitaries  to  lay  a  of what one thinks of Josef  scend  into  floods  of  tears
            grad.                        ed  on  the  banks  of  the  wreath  to  commemorate  Stalin.                          as  she  kissed  one  of  the
            "To  see  the  statue  and  Volga  and  at  the  bottom  the dead.                     The  Panorama  Museum  portraits in a small museum
            have  an  understanding  of  the  Mamayev  Kurgan,  "I'm into football and you're  in  Volgograd,  built  next  room on the side of the So-
            of  the  history  reminds  you  the  hill  that  was  savagely  into football, but when you  to  the  gutted  remains  of  viet cemetery.
            that some things are even  fought  over  by  the  Red  have an event like this, you  a  ruined  mill,  showcases  As for the World Cup, Vitaly
            bigger  than  football,  and  Army and the Nazis. Some-   realize  it's  more,  there's  an  array  of  tributes  to  the  is  not  so  interested  but  he
            that's good perspective for  times changing hands sev-    more  than  just  football,"  city,  including  a  sword  clapped  when  Russia  won
            us all," said England coach  eral times on any particular  said fan Billy Grant.       from  King  George  VI  that  its first match against Saudi
            Gareth Southgate.            day,  it  is  said  the  ground  Football  is  a  game  that  was presented to Stalin by  Arabia 5-0.
            The  battle  is  a  constant  on the hill was so soaked in  perhaps  unites  the  world  British  Prime  Minister  Win-  "I'm  a  patriot,"  he  said.  "I
            presence  in  the  city  of  blood that the springs were  more  than  any  other,  and  ston  Churchill  in  1943,  and  love my Russia."
            around 1 million. While the  poisoned.                    certainly  more  than  any  the  Legion  d'Honneur  that  Stalingrad, it's clear, was full
            monuments  loom  large  in  No  wonder  the  Soviet  au-  political  or  religious  creed.  French  President  Francois  of patriots.q
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