Page 29 - SAFFER 03

Have Faith

but it is also very unforgiving, it doesn’t stop for any reason and
will keep coming at you until you either give up or find a way
through.

With Paul I remember going out on a big day in Cornwall, England. A day
I really should not have attempted but the thrill of conquering
one of these monsters was just too much. Paddling out through
the white water was a massive task and it wasn’t long before
Riding The Waves of Life my arms were tiring and I started to realise I was in trouble. I
pressed on to get into a position out of the break where I could
gather myself and get my breath back when a huge swell came
Ok, as this magazine has proved on many occasions, I am an in. The wave faces were well over 8ft, probably closer to 10ft
old Surf bum. I first hit the waves in my youth off the south and all I could do was duck beneath the force as they crashed on
coast of England at my local beach. Highcliffe is a great beach top of me. Thankfully, I finally had a lull where I paddled like
break with a couple of very gnarly points. The perfect place for mad to get myself into that safe zone.
a chilled out childhood.
I waited for a while to regain my strength, finally got the
But surfing became a way of life for me in so many ways. From nerve to drop into a wave and screamed in pure joy as the ride
those very early days I found that once I was out in the water, finished and I found myself back close to the shore line.
there was no room for thinking about the stresses of life or
about what was going to happen in the next few days, it was Surfing is so much of a life lesson. I believe the biggest lessons
just me, the waves and the moment. For a start, if you don’t are, it teaches you to rely on yourself and it teaches you not to
concentrate on what you are doing when the waves are big, you give up. If I had given up on that big day, I probably would have
got myself into serious trouble. I also would not have had the
reward of riding a huge wave. (Well, at least a huge wave to me.)

In life, we often find ourselves getting caught up in the big
waves society throws at us. Paddling against this can be
exhausting and fruitless but just every now and then we need to
push on to get ourselves into a place where we will get the best
reward.

Like the ocean, life is a beautiful thing but sometimes we need
to learn to work with it. To find that perfect wave, drop in and
then ride the path we have chosen. That is when we will find
ourselves in perfect harmony with the world.

As for me, at the grand age of 55, I have returned to the ocean
to begin surfing again. It has been a long time since I last surfed
but many lessons have been learned which I will take into the
water and begin my search for that perfect wave once again.

“Finally, brothers, whatever is true, whatever is honorable,
whatever is just, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever
is commendable, if there is any excellence, if there is anything
worthy of praise, think about these things.”
Phillipians 4:8

can very quickly find yourself in a whole world of trouble. But
more than that, when everything falls into place you become
immersed in the task of becoming one with nature. Pulling into
that perfect wave and feeling the board flow with the force of
the ocean is something which is truly spiritual. In fact, I would
say it is a ‘pure’ emotion.

However, there are times when those moments turn into a fight
for survival with only yourself to rely on to get yourself out of
trouble. The ocean is a truly spectacular and beautiful place

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