Page 126 - United States of Pie

Quince-Apple Pie

Quince trees used to flourish in the South. But because of a
susceptibility to disease, they’re rarer now than they used to be, and
as a result, quince has fallen out of favor in the United States. But
early in our country’s history, settlers regularly baked, stewed, and
poached quinces.

The quince is a strange fruit. You can’t eat it out of hand—its skin
is inedible and coated in a fine, dusty fur. It looks like a cross
between an Anjou pear and a Golden Delicious apple, and it has an
intoxicating, almost floral perfume. But uncooked, the flesh is so tart
and astringent that if you took a bite you would probably spit it right
out. When cooked, though, the fruit softens, changes flavor—
becoming honeyed—and takes on a lovely rosy hue.

Because of these properties, the recipe for this pie is multipart,
involving poaching, simmering, and, finally, baking. The quinces are
sliced and poached in honey; the subtle, sweet flavor of the honey
creates a wonderful parallel with the quince. And you will notice that
this is not a pure quince pie. By mixing quince with fresh apple, the
floral aspect of the fruit mellows a bit, and the apple lends the pie a

tender bite.

1 recipe Whole Wheat Pie Dough or Rich and Buttery Pie
Dough

2 pounds quinces (4 or 5 medium quinces), peeled, cored,
and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices

½ cup honey
2 teaspoons vanilla extract