Page 36 - United States of Pie

Leaf Lard Pie Dough

Lard: one little ingredient that is fraught with such unpleasant
connotations! Let me assure you that lard makes a crust so light, so
flaky, so delicious, that you will be left wondering why this fat gets
such a bad rap. Leaf lard is a virtually flavorless pork fat that was
used in all pie dough a century ago. Bakers value leaf lard for

creating layer upon layer of flaky dough. Dough made with this lard
is meltingly tender, sturdy enough to hold its shape when baked, yet
shatteringly crisp.
It is important to note that leaf lard is not standard commercial
lard, which is often labeled manteca in the grocery store. Manteca is
hydrogenated, contains trans fats, and is high in cholesterol. But leaf
lard, often sold by butchers or at farmers’ markets, contains a lower

level of saturated fat than butter, and in fact contains an acceptable
level of monounsaturated fat (the good fat).
When working with lard, you’ll notice that it’s very thick and rather
sticky. When you work the lard into the flour, the texture will mellow
as the heat of your hands warms the fat.

Makes enough for one 9-inch double-crusted pie or two 9-inch pie

shells

2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into ½-
inch cubes
¼ cup leaf lard, chilled, cut into ½-inch cubes
6 to 10 tablespoons ice water