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FACE TO FACE | EASTERN HORIZON 35

I find these sites of pilgrimage carry a special energy. The Buddha loved to watch the sunset from Vulture
Over centuries, millions of devoted practitioners have Peak, also in Rajgir. This is where he gave the silent
traveled to, meditated at, and made offerings at them, and flower sermon and, according to believers, offered the
it feels like we enter a palpable vortex of spiritual power. Heart sutra and the Lotus sutra.
I’ve had skeptical pilgrims unexpectedly break into tears
or experience profound insights at all these sites. Nalanda has considerable remains of one of the
world’s oldest universities and a great monastic
The physical journey itself becomes a practice of letting center. It functioned from the 5th to the 12th century
go. When pilgrims leave their homes, they naturally CE and was home to many great Mahayana Buddhist
begin to become aware of their attachments. This also masters and scholars. It is a place to pay respect to our
touches seeds deep in their consciousness that lie ancestral teachers.
dormant in their habituated environments. This is a
great way to learn of our reactivity and train to respond Vaishali is distinguished for being where he ordained
appropriately, a key to spiritual practice. his stepmother Mahapajapati and welcomed the first
nuns into the Sangha. It was also where the second
The pilgrimage creates a container for intensive Buddhist council was held. Kesariya has what was the
practice. In our normal lives, we have many distractions. tallest Buddhist stupa in the world. It is where the
However, when we walk ancient paths with fellow Kalama sutra was delivered in support of the spirit of
seekers, maintain noble silence, and follow a rhythm free inquiry. It is also the site where the Buddha gave
of practice, the mind naturally settles. I’ve led groups his bowl to the people of Vaishali, who were following
where even complete beginners discover deep states of him as he announced his death.
meditative absorption after a few days.
In Sravasti, the Buddha spent 24 of his 3-month
Besides the four main holy sites where the Buddha monsoon season retreats, and where he taught more
was born, attained enlightenment, gave his first than anywhere else. It was here that he offered the
teaching, and passed away, which are the other Anapanasati sutra on the full awareness of breathing.
pilgrimage sites in India that Buddhists should Sravasti is also the site of the famous Jetavana
also visit? monastery and where the Buddha converted the
dreaded terrorist Angulimala. Kapilavastu is notable as
In addition to the four main sites, I suggest visiting the location of the Buddha’s childhood and youth only
Rajgir, the capital of the Magadha kingdom at the time leaving to seek the way out of suffering at age 29. Other
of the Buddha. The then king offered him the first worthy sites for pilgrimage include Kosambi, where
monastery, the Bamboo Grove (Venu van), as a vihara, a there was a crisis amongst his disciples, and Sankasia,
dwelling space for monks. where many believe the Buddha descended to after
teaching his mother in heaven.