Page 61 - Issue 42

L fr
L fr
L frames, cars get Z frames. In the case of this Kenny ames, cars get Z frames. In the case of this Kenny ames, cars get Z frames. In the case of this Kenny
Monroe Willys (or as I call it, my nephews way to punish me for all
the grief I gave him as a kid) we broke tradition. For sure, we did
an L frame on a car. Why you ask? He has a daughter that needed a
back seat to sit in and after taking out the 30” from the center of the
Willys, there was no room left at all. With the L frame, we picked up

an additional 12” that we badly needed. Again, you ask, “how did you
come up with the dimensions?”

We started with the main frame rails that the body sits on. Wherever you want the rear
end to sit, mark a line and from that line move forward 12” and then measure up to the fi rewall
and add 6” past that. From that 6” mark 45 degree cut that piece, with long side of cut on
top. This is so the engine rails can sit on top of this creating a Z’d look and giving you 6” of
welding surface. The engine rails will sit on top of the body rails and from touching the fi rewall
to the front will measure 36” if you’re running a small block. If not, you may want to add 3”.
At the back where we moved 12” up from the rear end is where we will weld on the L kick
up pieces. 16” is a good height for the kick ups, so considering the kick up will sit in between
the body rail and the tail section rails, you will minus 6” and that will be your kick up. If you’re
using 2 x 3 x 1/8” wall thickness tubing which I always do, this is where the 6” comes from. It

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