Page 115 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"
P. 115
Most Common Applications Tying in to end of rope in a team setting. Tying to end of rope when frequent and forceful falls are anticipated (sport climbing).
Security Two gestures of rope destabilize the knot. Three gestures of the rope destabilize the knot.
Efficiency Three steps to tie, not too difficult to untie (depending on load). Four steps to tie, easy to untie (even after forceful loading).
Strength Retains 80-90% of material strength. Retains 80-90% of material strength.
Notes on Visual Clarity Attaching the Rope to a Climber Instantly recognizable due to symmetrical appearance when well dressed. Difficult to inspect unless specifically familiar with the knot.
Knot or Hitch Figure 8 follow through Double bowline with Yosemite finish