Page 116 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

Use to attach a rope end to a climber (with 2 locking carabiners) or an object (with one locking carabiner). Attaching a bight of rope to a carabiner when strength is a priority and the bight is not in proximity to t

Same as figure 8 follow through. One gesture of the rope can destabilize the knot. Two gestures of the rope destabilize the knot. Same as bowline.

Attaching the Rope to Something (Climbers or Objects)
Same as figure 8 follow through. Two steps to tie, not too difficult to untie (depending on load). Three steps to tie, easy to untie (even after forceful loading). Same as bowline.

Same as figure 8 follow through. Some testers have demonstrated slightly less strength than figure 8. Some testers have demonstrated slightly less strength than figure 8. Same as bowline, but two strands do

Same as figure 8 follow through. Initial overhand knot is distinctly doubled. Signature tongue points to anticipated load. Signature tongue is doubled.

Figure 8 on a bight Overhand on a bight Bowline Bowline with a bight