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Swiss Cheese is the DNA of Switzerland

By Evelina Rioukhina

Cheese is Switzerland’s national food, its his- produced in small quantities and not from an
tory, its culture, its tradition, its treasure, glo- easily accessible area – when I visited, it took
ry and pride, but also its means of survival in me seven hours to get there, five by transport
difficult times. It is one of the country’s main and two by foot.
products as well as the oldest one; in a way However, I was surprised how few people
Swiss cheese is the DNA of the country. know about Sbrinz - the oldest and the most
traditional Swiss hard cheese. This product
Of course, everybody knows about the Swiss is the real Swiss DNA, coming from the area
cheese, but surprisingly enough, in some of the Oath of Allegiance, the heart of cen-
parts of the world only one variety is known, tral Switzerland. It comes in 45 kg wheels, is
which is called ‘Swiss cheese’. I also remem- matured for two to three years, and has been
ber during my childhood in Russia seeing the transported since before the 11th century to
cheese called ‘Swiss cheese’ at the shops. It was Italy by horses and mules. Even today one can
very good cheese, but I had no way of telling join the famous Sbrinz historic route; we were
which sort it was. Similarly, in Europe the fortunate enough to do so recently with the
name ‘Swiss cheese’ is often seen. Even in the permission of the President of Sbrinz route
Americas one can still often see ‘Swiss cheese’ Association Mr. Werner Grossniklaus, to
as if Switzerland has but the one product, and whom goes my deep gratitude, and the hope
asking in specialized shops even in big cities, to repeat it next year! Another no less im-
I was surprised to find only one type of Swiss pressive event from area also goes deep into
cheese, while many different types of French history: the cheese sharing, called in German
cheese will be presented as haute cuisine. «Chästeilet», in Justistal - literally, the Valley
of Justice. All farmers of the region gather on
Even more surprising, my international col- one day, bringing their own cheese, and shar-
leagues at the UN usually know Gruyère and ing with other families to survive the upcom-
Emmental, and some may have heard of Tête ing winter season. It is a fascinating event,
de Moine, Tilsit and Apenzeller, but often no and it is very touching to see people sharing
more than those. Piora, deservedly one of and caring for each other.
the most exclusive cheeses and only availa-
ble (rarely) at one place in Geneva, is total- The Swiss National museum of Dairy and
ly unknown here. Admittedly Piora is only Cheese in Keisen tells the story of cheese pro-

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