Page 17 - D. Raleigh "Knots and ropes for climbers"

Figure Eight on a Bight.

Figure Eight on a Bight

This is one of the most necessary and functional knots. You could learn to climb knowing only two
knots, the Figure Eight on a Bight and the Figure Eight Follow-Through. The Figure Eight Follow-
Through would join you to rope, and the Figure Eight on a Bight would join your rope to the anchors.
For this latter use, the knot is without peers. It is strong, simple, and not apt to slip. The only
disadvantage to the Figure Eight on a Bight is that it's not easy to adjust. Until you develop a feel for
how much rope the knot consumes versus the distance to your anchor, you're likely to end up with a
system that's either too tight or too slack.