Page 41 - D. Raleigh "Knots and ropes for climbers"

transfer the load from your belay device to an independent anchor. The Mariner Knot loosens and slips
when it isn't weighted; keep an eye on it.

Common Use
Transferring weight from one anchor to another

Mariner Knot.

Garda Hart Knot

As sure as you'll wind up on a climb without a belay device, you'll also end up without a pulley but
needing to haul a heavy pack or assist a struggling partner up a pitch. The Garda Hart, a one-
directional sliding knot, is tailor-made for the situation. To rig, clip two similar carabiners (two ovals,
for example) to a sling that runs through your belay anchor. Clip and weave the rope through the
carabiners as shown. Be careful to orient the carabiner gates so that they open on top. To use, pull on
the unweighted side of the rope and voilàthe pack, or your friend, rises. (If you've threaded the rope
wrong, it will be able to slide in both directions; test before you commit.) Relax your grip, and the
carabiners pin the rope, letting you hold the weight with little effort. Don't let go of the rope, however,
as the Garda Hart can slip. Watch that the knot doesn't creep up onto the carabiner gates and unclip
itself.

Common Uses
Emergency pack hauling
Assisting a partner up a pitch