Page 51 - HaMizrachi #29 Yom HaAtzmaut 2021 USA
P. 51

PLACES IN ISRAEL            THE PEOPLE AND THE LAND



 Gael Grunewald                                                                         Michael Even-Esh

                               Ein Keshatot


                 Mother of All Symbols





             pile of rocks! That’s all you could   happen. It began in 2003 with a survey;   in our synagogue architecture. If walls
             see here for years; just a pile of   afterwards, a huge crane was placed over   could talk…
       A cks. Except for a few archae-       the rubble. From atop the crane, 3-D   Compared to others in the area, this Beit
              o
             r
       ologists, guides and hikers, this site was   digital photos were made of the ancient   Knesset is large and fancy. How did the
       way off the beaten path in the Golan   debris, which allowed an analysis and   Jewish citizens of this backwater village
       Heights.                              interpretation of the ruins. Every stone   manage to pay for the construction and
       As of now, we don’t know the ancient   had a number and an installed micro-  decoration of this magnificent monu-
       name of this site, but today it goes by the   chip with its “profile.” For two seasons,   ment? The answer might be found near
       modern name of Ein Keshatot (“Spring   the crane removed more than 1,500   the village spring. Two of the arches
       of the Arches”). This name derives from   stones from the collapsed structure.   stand today over the water that was
       the site’s Arabic name: Um el-Kanatir   Then it was time to rebuild! Yehoshua   used for drinking, home use, and other
       (literally: “The Mother of Arches”). And   “scanned” each stone, and a computer   purposes. But on the western side of the
       indeed, the village spring still lies under   program “told” him where it should be   spring was an “industrial zone.” The pool
       impressive arches to this day.                                             here was used, apparently, for preparing
                                             placed and in which position. In 2018,
       Since the 19  century, explorers and   the site was finally opened to the public.   flax for use in luxury linen clothes. This
                  th
       scholars have agreed that an ancient   It is an absolute masterpiece!      wasn’t just any shmatteh enterprise; it
                                                                                  was big business!
       synagogue had been located here, but for
       most visitors, Um el-Kanatir could just   Today, visitors to Ein Keshatot can enter   This is only a small part of the fasci-
       as well have been called “The Mother of   the sixth century synagogue, pray the   nating story of Ein Keshatot – its rise
       all Rubble.” (We know today that “Ra’ash   very words that our ancestors prayed,   and fall, its discovery, its rebirth, and its
       Shvi’it”, a fierce earthquake during the   and be surrounded by the very same   inspiring archaeological finds. But one
       Shmittah year of 749 CE, destroyed the   stones. But the jewel in the crown of this   question remains: why visit here davka
       village.)                             site is on top of the bima. A magnificent   on Yom HaAtzmaut?
                                             ark complex (“heichalit”) stands in all
       But then… somebody dared to think out   its glory. Although the wooden cabinet   Golan resident Effie Eitam (Brigadier
       of the box!                           that held the Torah scrolls didn’t survive,   General, res.), said it best: “This entire
       The premier archaeologist in the Golan,   the stone structure that surrounded it   site is symbolic of the rebirth of the
       Chaim Ben-David from Moshav Keshet,   did. And it is a sight to behold! Look at   Jewish people and the State of Israel.
                                                                                  For centuries, it was just a pile of stones.
       came to visit the site with ancient tech-  the heichalit’s pillars and you’ll see the
       nology expert Yehoshua Dray. To para-  engraved symbols of a menorah, lulav,   Nobody believed it could be rebuilt.
                                                                                  Nevertheless, a few energetic visionary
       phrase and condense their conversation,   etrog and shofar.
       Chaim said: “So what do you think?”                                        pioneers came and put it back together
                                                                                  again, stone-by-stone.”
       And Yehoshua said: “We can do it!”    But what about that strange-looking
                                             dustpan-like thing? What’s that? It’s
       And so for the first time, somebody took   an incense shovel, akin to that in the
       the very rocks of a destroyed synagogue,   Temple  in  Yerushalayim.  This  arte-
       and  built  the  original  Beit  Knesset,   fact tells us, without a doubt, that the
       ancient-rock-by-ancient-rock (techni-  builders and decorators of this syna-
       cally, this process is not called “recon-  gogue were invoking the image of the
       struction,” but rather “anastylosis”).   Beit HaMikdash. As if to say, this is our

       Ben-David, Dray, archaeologist Ilana   Mikdash Me’at, our mini-Temple. We   Michael Even-Esh is an outdoor educator,
                                                                                  cave explorer and snake catcher. He and
       Gonen and the Golan Regional Council   don’t just pray towards Yerushalayim,   his family live in Moshav Nov in the Golan
       all came together to make the project   but we invoke the Beit HaMikdash itself   Heights. evenesh@gmail.com.




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