Page 367 - J. C. Turner - History and Science of Knots

360 History and Science of Knots

had ended with the Edict of Nantes, which gave Protestants freedom of wor-
ship, and the C17th began with the granting of charters to the East India
Companies. Spain, having expended her gold from the Americas, and lost
her Armada fleet, no longer had her former power. France, spiritually united
by Henri IV's edict, had attracted back many of her Huguenot craftsmen and
was regaining some of her prosperity. In Britain, the kingdoms of England and
Scotland were united under James I and VI; the stability so gained enabled
enterprising merchants to develop the London textile trade till it became the
fashion market of Europe.
Venetian lace remained the fashionable fabric for those who could afford
the price. As the stiffly starched ruffs gave way to falling collars, the designs
became less geometric and more formally floral, sometimes with heraldic motifs
figuring in the centre. The outlines of the motifs grew more heavily padded,
becoming part of the design, and Venetian gros point developed; this extra
weight of padding gave body to the lace, and so style to the garment. To
speed production and to economise on the cost of materials horse-hair was
sometimes used in place of thread in the padding, but this would shrink with
repeated washing, destroying the lace in the process. Such great sums of money
were expended on the purchase of lace that sumptuary edicts were published
in France in 1594, 1600, 1601 and 1613 limiting the amounts of lace used at
the French court.
Meanwhile, the French `blonde' laces (which took their name from the pale
gold colour of the silk with which it was generally made, though sometimes
black silk was used) were being imported by Spain, for the softer character
of this style of bobbin lace and the draping qualities of the fibre made it
perfect for use as mantillas; and the designs of the French laces were more
sophisticated than those of Spain. Collars at the Spanish court followed the
French styles and used the Italian laces; so much money was being drained out
of Spain that in 1623 Philip IV issued a decree banishing French styles from the
Spanish court. The huge lace collars, slashed coats and elaborate embroidery
were banned, as were gold and silver lace; thereafter courtiers were expected
to wear plainly tailored suits of rich fabrics, while their collars were of plain
white linen stiffened with shellac.
In Britain, the French influence had been increased by the presence of
Queen Henrietta Maria. While court fashions retained the sober elegance
favoured by Charles I, the younger courtiers were using lace in more and more
exaggerated forms-as trims to boot-tops, deep collars falling to mid-chest
level, etc. By the time of the English Civil War the collars were so large as to
prevent gentlemen from drawing their swords easily, and Cavaliers were tying
their lace into bunches under the chin with a ribbon bow: this gave rise to
the lace cravat/jabot that is still worn by the Lords Mayor of English cities
on ceremonial occasions.