Page 383 - J. C. Turner - History and Science of Knots

376 History and Science of Knots

The problem of printing graph-grid patterns was solved in the first decade
of the century, but the possibilities were not realised till a German printer (Wit-
tich of Berlin) began to publish charted designs for cross-stitch. This began
a craze for counted-thread work on canvas-so passionately was this pursued
that for some decades `embroidery' and Berlin wool work were synonymous.
During the same period, this form of printing was being used by a printer
in Philadelphia for the publication of filet-lacis patterns. This `crochet type'
did much to make filet-crochet the popular form of lacemaking that it still
remains.
Domestic needlework, which included lacemaking, centred round the ev-
eryday needs of the household. The elaborately fitted workboxes of the middle
part of the century give us an excellent idea of the domestic lace-work; and
netting must come high on the list, for many boxes contain netting-needles
and mesh gauges, while some boxes are fitted exclusively for netting. Ladies
of the era would have used hair nets, plain in the daytime and decorated for
evening wear; these would have been made in the home, as were the stocking
purses which carried coins. Both these items were subject to hard wear, and
would have needed constant replacement, giving the maker a chance to try a
new lace pattern each time. Magazines and books on needlework were now
available at reasonable prices, and these often carried suggestions as to the
suitability of certain designs for some purpose.
After Prince Albert's death, the fashion for mourning resulted in a brief
period when hair `lace' was mounted in jewellery. This was more an open plait
than real lace, though the plaiting technique used is a lace stitch.

The Twentieth Century
The Edwardians began the century with a coronation. One of the souvenirs
of this was a braid spaced-dyed in lengths of red, white and blue which could
be used in all sorts of handiwork. Tape-lace and crochet patterns using
Coronation Braid were published, and gave a new interest to the designers.
However, the designs were coarse in scale, to accommodate the thick braid,
and the emphasis was on the showy rather than on craftsmanship.
A form of tape-lace using thread fillings to hold the design of swirling
loops was named in honour of the Battenburgs, and hideous bedspreads were
made in this technique. Nor was it a practical design of lace for the tapes
lost their crisp form after a few washes; but its ease of construction brought it
within the scope of most women.
. Needle-lace was still made as a form of embroidery, for there had been a
revival of interest in fine needlework thanks to the influence of William Mor-
ris. The bobbin-laces, having always been made commercially and now being
supplanted by the machine-made pieces, were dying as the lace-makers died.