Page 384 - J. C. Turner - History and Science of Knots

A History of Lace 377

The designs remained, being preserved in a debased form by the copies made
on the Barmen and, later, the improved Raschel machines. In Switzerland, the
Schiffli machine with its pantograph made possible the simultaneous produc-
tion of several lengths of the same design so speeding the process and cutting
costs. Modern technology has put a technology spun alginate fabric on the
domestic market, making it possible for a needlewoman to attempt chemical
lace on the sewing machine in complete safety, for the solvent for this fabric is
water.
Tatting developed chains at this time, giving more scope to the design,
and strength in use. From a delicate, easily distorted, lace it became a crisp one
that maintained its shape even after numerous washes; moreover, it required
so little equipment that it was justifiably popular. Knitted and crocheted
laces remained general favourites, particularly after the wars, when there was
a great need for beauty and little money to spend on the begetting thereof:
again the minimal requirements for tools must have helped.
In the 60s, there was a revival of interest; lace bobbins could be purchased
once more from specialist needlework shops, and two books were published,
one a reprint. The surviving lacemakers were asked to teach their skills, and
children in schools began to admit an interest in this `old-fashioned activity'.
In 1976 the Lace Guild was established, one of several international societies,
for the study of lace, and in the last 16 years much has been done to further
our knowledge of this craft, its traditions and history. Museums specialising in
lace have been set up, courses are run all round the world; and, most recently,
efforts are being made to help enthusiasts with the design of pieces. Almost
all lace diploma courses now include some design exercises, so ensuring that
the craft will not stultify. Small developments have occurred in many of the
techniques, for modern materials necessitate a change in some areas; but no
single new invention has yet come to add to all the accumulated skills of the
past.

Written Sources
The Pipe Rolls (mostly C13th) for data on pins, prices and
non-existence of lace
Chaucer (ca. C14th)
The Wardrobe Accounts of the Tudor and Stuart Monarchs
The Accounts of Hengrave Hall
The Paston Letters
Sumptuary Laws and other accounts of Cllth-C17th England
and Fiance
Memoires du duc de Saint-Simon sur le siecle
de Louis XIV et la Regence
Memoire du duc de Luynes sur la cour de Louis XV