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PARIS 113

Chez L'Ami Jean

We set ourselves the enormous task of leaving Meursault at 8am,
driving to Paris, checking in at two separate apartments in two different
arrondisements, returning the hire car to Montparnasse and getting to
lunch at Chez L’Ami Jean by 12.15. We got there at 12.30. We were a little
tightly wound and only a Ramonet 1er Cru could gently unwind us with
its soothing properties.

There’s a list where one can find the last bottle of there was notable colour restoration to his cheeks and a
various things here. There was a 2013 Chassagne ‘Les vibrancy to the man that we hadn’t seen since he ate a
Caillerets’ and ‘Les Ruchottes’ from Ramonet. We green salad back in Champagne.
ordered both.
Main courses here are superb. My pig done several ways
The 2013 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er led the way with a piece of loin cooked to perfection.
Cru 'Les Ruchottes' was by far the richer, more intense There were slower cooked parts of the beast and some
and complete wine of the two and we should have offal. All were brought together with the perfect
had it second. It had the usual Ramonet elegance with jus. The silkiest mash of potato was on hand to add some
some white peach and spearmint notes. In the mouth, vegetable component, should you wish. Colin’s beef was
it had plenty of presence and volume without weight. also a contrast in slow-cooked meat alongside cooked
It had sneaky persistence and was minerally fresh right to the minute. Heidi’s boned roast of rabbit saddle was
at the end. The 2013 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne- elegant, juicy and delicious. Two of the dishes went
Montrachet 1er Cru 'Les Caillerets' had aromas of white splendidly with the Ramonet. Colin said he didn’t care
peach, mint and flora. It was far more compact and tight that his steak didn’t go with it. He was just happy to drink
with piercing minerally acidity. It will fatten out but a couple of great bottles of Ramonet.
will never have the same presence as the 'Ruchottes'.
Bloody good wine, though. Riz au lait de Chez L’Ami Jean is one of the world’s great
desserts. Essentially they take one grain of rice, whip an
L’Ami Jean has a pretty successful formula. Shit-hot extraordinary amount of vanilla cream into it and serve
food is cooked by a boisterous chef with charisma. Jam it with a beautiful caramel butter and some candied
the patrons in like sardines and have a team of cheeky nuts. One of the waiters recommended a glass of Gaston
waiting staff deliver the puns, attitude and service in a Rivière Pineau des Charentes Pineau François 1er. It was a
way that plays perfectly in that space between ‘Go get masterstroke, as the alcohol of the wine was heady enough
fucked’ and ‘We care about you’. to match it with all of the cream and intense flavours. It
was grapey with some nutty elements as well. The finish
For entrée, Heidi had a wonderful bowl of soup that was clean.
was essentially a rich reduction of vegetables with
crispy bits of jamon in it. Simplistic but perfection. My After a scalding hot coffee, having been seated for far too
chargrilled octopus was off-the-charts good. Tender and many hours, we stretched our legs with a walk back to the
full of flavour and with a reduction that was meaty and 6th, after stretching our tummies with the rice pudding.
a brilliant partner to the occy. Colin had an asparagus
soupy looking thing. His vitamin levels have waned Chez L'Ami Jean
a little this trip as he has been a bit of a salad dodger.
After consuming this dish, that he deemed superb, 27 Rue Malar, 75007 Paris, France

Ph: +33 1 47 05 86 89

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