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BURGUNDY                                        39

AUBERGE LA MIOTTE

A cold, rainy day in Burgundy calls for a       It washed the eggs, onions, lardons and red
warming lunch with a couple of the classics.    wine reduction down most amiably.
Heidi, Colin and I were thinking Auberge la     Rich and hearty boeuf bourguignon needed
Miotte may be the rub. En route to this most    something deeply pitched and dense. Enter a
                                                2005 from a great maker. The 2005 Domaine
Burgundian of places, we all agreed that œufs   Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée absolutely
en meurette or bœuf bourguignon would be the    overdelivers for its level. It was so luscious
order of the day. The restaurant was on the     and creamy with black fruits and engaging
same page as us and had both on the luncheon    scents of violets and aniseed. With air, it
menu with a slice of Époisses and a dessert     showed rose-petal perfume and finished with
thrown in for just 28 euros.                    wonderful spherical tannins and a finish that
The wine list is written in chalk on the        drives on and was expansive.
board. There is generally a bottle or two of    Special mention must go to two outstanding
Coche to be found and the 2013 Coche-Dury       desserts. A simple chocolate mousse was simply
Aligoté is particularly good value. You can     the bomb and Colin’s tarte citron with walnuts
get 50 bottles of it for the price they are     was perfect from the pastry to the curd.
asking for one bottle of the 1996 Corton-
Charlemagne. We only had one bottle of the      Auberge La Miotte
Aligoté but felt like we were fiscally well     4 Rue de la Miotte,
in front. It had notes of preserved lemon and   21550 Ladoix-Serrigny, France
slate, with a suggestion of rockmelon too. It   Ph:++33 3 80 26 40 75
was pulpy and linear, finishing with good cut.

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