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BURGUNDY                              41

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

Thomas Morey was operating the bottling line at              Caroline Morey, Pierre-Yves’ wife is now running her
           Domaine Thomas Morey and got the shock of         own Domaine and we took the opportunity to try her
           his life when he saw us standing at the door. We  Chassagne 'Caillerets' next to her husband’s. The 2014
           were due to see him the next week. We had been    Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er

wandering around Chassagne looking for Pierre-Yves           Cru 'Les Caillerets' oozes minerality. It is textured and

Colin. He kindly hopped in his car and directed us to        unctuous in the mouth and has plenty of glycerol yet is

Pierre-Yves’ new digs just out of the village.               piercing with a chalky finish. The 2014 Caroline Morey

Pierre-Yves is one of the most thoughtful, intuitive         Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'Les Caillerets' is gentle

winemakers I have met. He believes you must have your and delicate with engaging scents of preserved citrus,

feet grounded in the vineyard. There is no substitute        mineral and blossom. It is airy in the mouth yet there’s

for hard work and you cannot cut any corners. It is the      good presence. The fruit has a sappy quality and length

sum of all parts that leads to greatness in the bottle. He is good.

was frank and open about discussing premox problems. We moved out of Chassagne and over to Puligny to try
I must say that I cannot ever recall having a premox’d
                                                             the 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Puligny-Montrachet
bottle from PY-CM. He has four presses in the winery and 1er Cru 'La Garenne'. Pierre-Yves first made this wine
believes in pressing the fruit completely. Other Domaines in 2013 and the fruit is from his aunt’s 70-year-old
may only press for 90% of the time if there is demand to vineyard. It is a rich wine, with ripe peach fruit and
get another batch of fruit in
                                                                                      plenty of blossom notes. It is
the press. His wines spend
                                                                                      cut with grapefruit acidity.
a long time on gross lees.
                                                                                      A 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-
He pays for the best quality
bottles and corks that money                   It is the sum of                       Morey Meursault 1er Cru 'Les
can buy and wax seals every      all parts that leads to                              Perrières' was rich, layered,
bottle.                          greatness in the bottle.                             deep and complex. It has so
                                                                                      much going on and so much
After a tour of the cellar, we                                                        depth yet the wine literally

hit the tasting bench to have a                                                       glides across the palate in

squiz at a few recently bottled                                                                a weightless manner. The
2014s. The 2014 Pierre-Yves                                                                    mineral is there and builds
Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 'Le Banc' smells of fresh lemons     through the palate as the glycerol drops away. Textbook
and limestone. It is pure, direct and has flesh along with   Perrières, and brilliant.
detail. The 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er
Cru 'Chatenière' is rich, spicy, dense and sappy. There are  A couple of cracking Grand Crus is a nice way to round
notes of orchard fruits and aniseed. It is spicy and has a   off a tasting. The 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-
strong mineral spine. The 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey       Charlemagne Grand Cru is tight, rich and powerful. It
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 'En Remilly' has great line and great    is sappy and has so much flesh yet it is compact and
shape. There’s a core of pure white peach. You get some      piercing. The finish is seriously chalky and the wine will
fennel bulb and chalky mineral as well. It is unctuous       need a lot of time to reach its apogée. The 2014 Pierre-
yet light and airy in the mouth. The 2014 Pierre-Yves        Yves Colin-Morey Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 'Les Ancegnières' is        is splendid. It is rocky and cool with loads of finesse.
brimming with rich orchard fruits. Dense and sappy and       There’s shape, intensity, perfect proportion and balance.
possesses great balance. The 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-         It is a wine essentially carved from stone but you get a
Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'Les Chenevottes'         little white peach and aniseed to remind you that the
comes off a 50-year-old vineyard. This has power with        juice was squeezed from berry.

finesse. There’s a sweet heart of white peach fruit, some I would be happy to have multiple bottles of any of

preserved lemon and a big sprinkling of salt to the finish. these ‘14s in my cellar.

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