Page 16 - Rappelling

leader fall—and therefore is the standard rope for
rock climbing, ice climbing, and mountaineering,
where the rope will be used for belayed climb-
ing and rappelling. A dynamic rope will typically
stretch about 26 to 36 percent during a leader fall
(dynamic elongation) and around 7 to 11 percent
under body weight (static elongation).
UIAA and CE Certification
for Dynamic Ropes
Dynamic ropes sold for rappelling, climbing, and
mountaineering are tested and certified to UIAA
(Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme)
Deconstructed kernmantle rope showing the and CE (Certified for Europe) standards and
braided white interior core under the more should bear the UIAA or CE certification on the
tightly woven sheath. label. This means that the rope has been tested and
certified by a “third party” at one of three UIAA-
and life safety ropes. These ropes are made from approved testing facilities to meet the European
nylon, polyester, or a combination of these and Norm (EN) 892 and UIAA-101 standards for
other synthetic yarns. There are three basic types of dynamic rope. To receive this certification, the rope
kernmantle ropes: dynamic, low-stretch, and static. sample must survive at least five UIAA drop tests.
A dynamic rope is required for situations where a This test is done by taking a 80 kg (176 lb.) weight,
high-impact force can be generated—such as in a attaching it to one end of a 9-foot length of rope,

Selection of dynamic
ropes from Nomad
Ventures climbing shop,
Idyllwild, California.

Equipment 5

Rappelling_i-174_3pp_CS55le.indd 5 7/24/13 10:14 AM