Page 180 - Rappelling

Index

A assisted braking devices, 135–36, Powers Power Bolt expansion
ABCDE safety checklist, 144–45, 158 (5-piece Rawl), 42–43, 44,
106, 122 autoblock (third hand), 81. See 45, 47, 50
accidents, analysis/prevention, also belays psi ratings, 43
105–7 Rawl Drive, 40–42
American Safe Climbing B red flags to watch for, 43–45,
Association (ASCA), 53 backpacker (butterfly) coil, 9–11 48–49, 51–52
American Triangle, 60, 61 belays, 108–10, 114–19, 152 replacing, 45–47
anchors bends, 71–73 SMC, 40–42, 43
equalization principles, 56–60 defined, 65 spinners, 43–45
failures, 107 double fisherman’s today’s standards, 42–43
not tethering to, 106–7 (grapevine) knot, 16, 17, two-bolt systems, 40, 45, 47,
pre-equalized systems, 56–58 71, 72 48, 49–50
redundant. See redundancy figure eight, 71 website on, 43
RENE principle, 56 triple fisherman’s knot, 71, 73 See also anchors
self-equalizing systems, 58–60 blocks bowline, 66, 69–70
tensionless, 138 autoblock (third hand), 81. See brake system, carabiner, 93–95
types of. See anchors also belays braking devices, assisted, 135–36,
(artificial); anchors knot and carabiner, 147–50 144–45, 158
(natural); bolts Reepschnur method, 150–51 butterfly (backpacker) coil, 9–11
vectors, 60–61 bollards, rock, 30, 32
anchors (artificial), 40–55 bolts C
pitons, 53–54 cordless drills for placing, 42 cams, nuts and, 54–55
safety, ASCA and, 53 dangerous relics, 40–42, 43 canyoneering techniques,
See also bolts diameter considerations, 147–53
anchors (natural), 27–40 40–42 additional information
nuts and cams, 54–55 examples of good placements, sources, 152
rigging, 35–36 45–46, 47 carabiner and knot blocks,
rock structures, 30–35 failures, 107 147–50
trees, 27–29, 138 gold standard, 42–43 rappel devices for, 147
arm rappel, 88 hand drilling process, 40 Reepschnur method, 150–51
ASAPsorbers, 142–45 Leeper hanger, 42, 43 rigging for contingencies,
ascending techniques. See rope painting to match rock color, 152–53
ascending techniques 44, 47, 51 rope retrieval, 147–51

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