Page 178 - Rappelling

pitons: metal spikes of various shapes that are standing end: the end of the rope that is attached
hammered into the rock to provide anchors to something, such as an anchor, as opposed to
in cracks; sometimes called pins or pegs. These the running end or free end
types of anchors were common up to the 1970s static rope: a rope with virtually no stretch
but are rarely used today. stopper knot: a safety knot tied on the end of a
power point: see master point rope to prevent rappelling off the rope’s end
pre-equalized: tying off an anchor system for an SWL: safe working load; also known as working
anticipated force in only one direction load limit, normally one-fifth of the minimum
prusik: both the knot and any means by which braking strength for quick links
you mechanically ascend a rope tag end: the very end of the rope, or the tail end
quick link: a steel screw-link used for rappel that protrudes from a knot
anchors tail: the length of the rope’s end protruding from a
rappel: to descend by sliding down a rope, typically knot
utilizing a mechanical braking device thread: a sling or cord looped through a tunnel in
rapping: informal term for rappelling the rock structure
RENE: acronym for Redundancy, Equalization, and UIAA: Union Internationale des Associations
No Extension d’Alpinisme
rope direct belay: to belay from an extended vector: a measurement of force and direction in
master point using the climbing rope anchor systems
runner: see sling water knot: a knot used to tie a loop of webbing
running end: the end of the rope you’re working webbing: synthetic fiber woven flat like a strap,
with, as opposed to the standing end used to make slings. Nylon webbing was used
self-equalizing: an anchor system that adjusts to exclusively for slings until the 1990s; now slings
withstand a force in multiple directions are also made from Spectra and Dyneema
SLCD (spring-loaded camming device): see webbing.
Friend WLL: working load limit; also known as safe
working load, normally one-fifth of the
sliding X: a self-equalizing sling rigged between
two anchor points; also known as magic X minimum breaking strength for quick links
sling: webbing sewn or tied into a loop; also called Z system: a raising system with a 3:1 mechanical
advantage
a runner
spring-loaded camming device (SLCD): see
Friend

Glossary 167

Rappelling_i-174_3pp_CS55le.indd 167 7/24/13 10:19 AM