Page 182 - Rappelling
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water knot, 16–17 R See also canyoneering
for webbing, 16–18 rappel rack, 136–37 techniques; rappelling
rappelling devices
L cardinal rule, 85 rappelling methods (for
lap links, 49, 52 common problems, 87 climbing), 121–33
Leeper hanger bolts, 42, 43 ending rappels, 87 with heavy pack/haul bag,
leg wrap, 87, 155 friction required, 85–87 130
loop strength, 18 fundamentals, 85–87 multipitch rappels, 121–29
posture/placement of feet, rope management, 131–33
M 85, 86 simul rappels, 130
magic X (sliding X), 58–60 safety tips. See safety tandem rappels, 129
mechanical ascenders, 140–41, rappelling devices Rawl Drive bolts, 40–42
144–45, 159–63. See also assisted braking devices, 135– redundancy
jumaring 36, 144–45, 158 examples, 29, 30, 32, 59–60
mountaineer’s coil, 12 canyoneering devices, 147 magic X and, 59–60
multipitch rappels, 121–29 figure eight descenders, 95–98 notes on, 63
Munter hitch, 91–92 for fixed lines (single rope), RENE principle and, 56
135–45 rings and, 36
N passing knots, 139–41 Redundancy, Equalization,
nuts and cams, 54–55 Petzl Grigri, 135, 136 No Extension (RENE)
Petzl Stop, 135, 136 principle, 56
O plate devices, 102–3 Reepschnur method, 150–51
OPO plate, 103 rappel rack, 136–37 RENE principle, 56
overhangs, 87, 119, 138–39 rescue eight, 97 rescue eight, 97
rope protectors, 138–39 retrieving rope, 131, 147–51
P tube devices, 99–101 Reverso (Petzl), 99–101
pack, rappelling with, 130 vertical rope access rings, rappel, 36–40
Petzl Grigri, 135, 136 techniques, 141–45 rock bollards, 30, 32
Petzl Pirana, 147, 148, 149 See also rappelling methods rock horns, 32
Petzl Reverso, 100–101 rappelling methods rock structures, as anchors,
Petzl Stop, 135, 136 arm rappel, 88 30–35
pitons, 53–54 carabiner brake system, 93–95 rope ascending techniques,
plate devices, 102–3 carabiner rappels, 90–95 155–63
pre-equalized systems, 56–58 carabiner wrap, 90–91 improvised ascending
problems, common, 87 for climbing. See rappelling (prusiking), 155–58
protectors, rope, 138–39 methods (for climbing) jumaring, 159–63
prusik knot, 77–78 dulfersitz rappel, 88–90 single fixed rope, 158
prusiking, 155–58 fast roping, 87 Yosemite method, 163
fundamentals of rappelling, rope types
Q 85–87 CE EN 1891, 7
quick links, 36–40 Munter hitch, 91–92 dynamic ropes, 4, 5–6, 8
non-mechanical, 87–90 general use, 7
Index 171
Rappelling_i-174_3pp_CS55le.indd 171 7/26/13 9:25 AM