Page 46 - Rappelling

(continued from page 30) Avoid using blocks perched on a slanting slab. I like
When using the rock itself as an anchor, you to tie off the block around its entire mass, like wrap-
need to carefully assess the integrity of the rock ping a Christmas present with a ribbon, rather than
structure—what I call the macro structure. When using the pinch where the block touches another
assessing macro rock structure, think of it like this: rock surface or where two blocks touch each other.
You want to use a rock that is part of the planet, This way, even if the block shifts slightly, I am still
not one sitting on top of the planet. In other words, anchored to the mass of the block, and my cord or
avoid using detached blocks and flakes if at all pos- sling won’t get wedged into a tight constriction that
sible. A detached block is as obvious as a round may permanently jam the cord or sling into the
boulder sitting on a flat ledge, or as unobvious as a pinch. When tying off blocks, watch for sharp edges
chunk of rock that looks like part of the main rock that may fray or cut your rope, and use padding or
formation but has cracks all the way around it. an edge protector when needed.
If you decide to use a detached block, do so with
caution and use good judgment. Blocks should be Rigging Natural Anchors
well situated, unmovable, and not top heavy. YOSAR In many instances a single, bombproof natural
(Yosemite Search and Rescue) has a rule for using anchor can be safely used for a rappel anchor—a
a granite block as an anchor during technical rope 3-foot-diameter ponderosa pine tree, or a knob
rescue operations: The block must be bigger than a of rock the size of your refrigerator that’s part of
standard-size refrigerator and sitting on a flat surface. the main rock structure. Just make sure that your

A standard way to rig a natural anchor for rope retrieval: two separate slings of 1-inch nylon webbing,
each tied with a water knot, and two stainless steel rappel rings. Here the slings are long enough to
extend the master point over the edge, so pulling the rope through the rap rings will not be difficult.

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