Page 56 - Rappelling

spun around 360 degrees. This generally means that won’t tighten any further, then the bolt has serious
when the bolt was installed, the hole was not drilled problems—usually this means the tolerance (diam-
deeply enough, and the bolt contacted the bottom eter) of the hole is too big for the bolt, or the rock
of the hole before the hanger could be drawn flush is too soft.
against the rock. As someone who has replaced many bolts over
If the bolt wiggles slightly when you pull on the years, I can tell you that any ⁄4-inch bolt should
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it or if the hanger is loose, and the bolt has a hex be considered suspect, particularly in less than per-
head or a nut on threads, tightening the bolt with fect rock. I’ve plucked out many ⁄4-inch contraction
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a wrench may help, but most likely the bolt has bolts that came out with about the same resistance
a problem that can’t be fixed. If, while trying to
tighten it, you feel no increasing resistance and it

This two-bolt anchor consists of two ⁄8-inch-
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diameter Powers buttonhead drive bolts, with
stainless steel Petzl hangers, carbon steel
quick links, and FIXE welded stainless steel
rings. Seven years after installation in an alpine
environment at Suicide Rock, California, the
carbon steel quick links show obvious signs of
corrosion. When rigging bolt anchors, it’s wise
not to mix and match metal types—stick with
stainless steel for all the components. Stainless
A well-engineered two-bolt rappel anchor. is more expensive but will probably last a
Both bolts are ⁄8-inch stainless Powers bolts lifetime. At a high-use anchor, the rings may
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with stainless steel Petzl hangers, along with a need to be periodically replaced due to wear
stainless steel chain, quick links, and rings. from ropes being pulled through them.

Rappel Anchors 45

Rappelling_i-174_3pp_CS55le.indd 45 7/24/13 10:15 AM