Page 53 - Rappelling

exposure to the elements. These hangers are iden- rock (like sandstone)—standards that are still preva-
tifiable by a distinctive corrosive discoloration—a lent today.
yellowish or bronze tint—whereas the “good” SMC Although there are numerous types of bolts
hangers, made from stainless steel, show no signs of used in rock climbing today, the gold standard has
corrosion or rust and still appear silvery bright, even long been the “5-piece Rawl” expansion bolt (now
after twenty-five years. Another noticeable difference sold as the Powers Power Bolt). This expansion
is in the thickness of the hangers—the “bad” hangers bolt has a shaft with a hex head on one end and
roughly the thickness of a dime and the “good” ones threads on the other end (the end that goes in the
the thickness of a quarter. hole), with a cone-shaped piece screwed onto the
Another dangerous relic from the 1970s is the threads. The shaft has a two-part split sleeve, and as
Leeper hanger. Over 9,000 of these hangers were the hex head is tightened the cone climbs up the
manufactured by Ed Leeper of Colorado, and sub- threads and under the sleeves, which presses the
sequently recalled because of stress corrosion prob- sleeves outward, “expanding” the bolt in the hole.
lems with the metal, which rusted badly since it was The more you tighten it, the wider the sleeve gets.
not made of stainless steel. These hangers are easily
identifiable due to their distinctive, odd geometric
shape and their rusty condition.
In the 1980s climbers began to place bolts using
cordless rotary hammer power drills, and the bolt
standard became ⁄8-inch diameter for good, solid
3
rock (like granite) and ⁄2-inch diameter for softer
1

The recalled Leeper hanger can easily be Bad corrosion shows on a ⁄8-inch-diameter
3
identified by its unique shape and rusty threaded Rawl Drive bolt with a badly corroded
condition. Leeper hanger to match.

42 RAPPELLING

Rappelling_i-174_3pp_CS55le.indd 42 7/24/13 10:15 AM