Page 58 - Rappelling

as a nail being pulled out of plywood. To replace a hanger. I like to paint the hanger (before I install it)
1 ⁄4-inch bolt, the best method is to pry it out of its the same color as the rock so that the bolt is visually
hole, then re-drill the same hole to a ⁄2-inch diam- unobtrusive. It’s a good feeling to replace a tick-
1
eter and install a ⁄2-inch stainless steel Powers Power ing time bomb with a solid anchor that will last a
1
Bolt (10,000 lbs. shear strength) with a stainless steel lifetime.

This two-bolt anchor,
at the top of a popular
climb on Tahquitz Rock,
California, is rigged
with beefy chain and
quick links. The rope
is threaded through
a ⁄2-inch steel quick
1
link (rated with an
MBS of over 10,000
lbs.). Over time, since
it’s not stainless steel,
corrosion will weaken it,
as will stress and wear.
I prefer not to trust my
life to a single hardware
store component. If I’m
setting up an anchor
that will see heavy
climber and rappeller
use, I’ll rig it with
redundant hardware
components.

Rappel Anchors 47

Rappelling_i-174_3pp_CS55le.indd 47 7/24/13 10:15 AM