Page 63 - Router Boss Manual

Lay out the pin/socket centers
Just like for the through dovetail drawers, we’ll put
a partial pin on each edge, which means the sides will
have a partial socket on each edge. We’re using a 5/16”
- diameter dovetail bit for our drawer and we’ll make
the outer half-pin centers a full 1/4” to leave plenty of
wood on the front piece when we square things up with
the chisel. As we did for through dovetails, we create a
layout pattern on one of the side pieces, in this case on
the “A” end. The marks for the half-pins on each edge
are placed 1/4” from the edge. We are also placing a pin
in the center and two others about 1” on either side of
the center pin. Any pattern that looks good is accept-
able. Lay out a socket pattern on the end of one side piece
with each mark representing the center line of the
dovetail bit.

Once you have the socket/pin centerlines marked,
stack the side pieces together and clamp them in the
Router Boss with the “A” and “C” ends together and
the caret marks pointing towards the sliding bar. Posi-
tion a centering bit or the laser crosshairs at each layout
mark and write down the scale or DRO reading.

Cut the sockets as previously shown in the through
dovetail section (pages 25-26). Cartwheel the side piec-
es so the same face is against the sliding bar. Because
we are using 1/2” thick stock for the back and 3/4”
thick stock for the front, we set the bit depth to match
the back piece, which will still leave us a 1/4” on the Cartwheel boards
front to “hide” the side-piece tails. Depending on the end for end
thickness of your stock, you may need to cut the socket
boards independently (“A” and “B” ends according to
your front thickness and “C” and “D” ends according to Keep same face
the back thickness). against sliding bar

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