Page 64 - Router Boss Manual

Cut the half-blind pins
At the start of this procedure, we mentioned that
to make half-blind joints, you need to make stopped pin
cuts on the front piece. To know where to stop your cut,
you’ll need to mark each end of the front stock piece.
Before making the stopped cuts you’ll also need to set
the variable angle guide rails and cut and fit a test pin
(see page 28).

To set the depth, measure the depth of the socket
cuts on one of the sides, then transfer this measurement
to each end of the drawer front, measuring from the
back/inner face. A marking gauge with a cutter leaves a
nice crisp line that’s easier to cut to than a pencil line.

With both ends marked, clamp the drawer front in
the Router Boss with the inner face against the sliding
bar (caret mark points away from the machine face).
The narrow portion of the scribed line should be closest
to you.

Using a cursor or DRO, position the workpiece at
the first pin position (1/4”), and turn the router so the Back
plate is against the front half of the left wing and the right
back half of the right wing, as shown at right. Push the
router so the bit is behind the stock, then set the router
depth stop to the socket board thickness and plunge
the bit to the stop. Turn the router on and pull the bit
into the stock, stopping just shy of the scribed line, Front
then push the router back and turn it off. We’ve cut the left
first half-pin.

When the bit stops, pull the router back until the
bit is again against the cut line. Mount a stop to the
base plate so you can cut up to the line easily on sub-
sequent cuts, then push the router back from the cut.

TIP - Because all the cuts for the half-blind dove-
tails are stopped, it’s extremely important to grasp
the router firmly and take care to keep the router
positioned tightly against the wings at all times. If
you’re not careful as you move the bit back out of
the cut, you can inadvertently “widen” the cut and
end up with sloppy fitting joints.

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