Page 121 - The Wellington photographic handbook

colder will be the resulting tone. The prints should not be allowed
to float on the surface of the fixing bath, or they may become
stained. When dry, the prints always appear several shades colder
in tone than when wet.

WASHING, DRYING, MOUNTING, ETC.
The prints now require washing. There is no need to repeat
the instructions previously given, as in all these respects P.O. P.
and Bromide paper require identical treatment. The reader should
therefore turn to pages 51 and 52 and follow the directions there
given.
GLOSSY SURFACE P.O.P. PRINTS.

Some workers desire their prints to possess the highest possible
glaze, and for this purpose Glossy P.O.P. is unequalled. Prints
intended for glazing should be allowed to dry in the usual manner,
and should then be re-wetted. In the meantime glass, pulp glazing
slabs or ferrotype plates should be prepared to receive them by
being treated with a solution of wax. This is made by dissolving
60 grains of beeswax cut up into shreds in ten ounces of benzol
(4 grammes in ,300 c.c). It should be shaken at intervals for a
day or so, and then the clear solution of wax poured off into a
well-corked bottle for use. The glass or ferrotype plates, previously
thoroughly cleaned, should be waxed all over by applying a little
of this solution with a rag or tuft of cotton wool, and then polished
with a clean cloth. The wet prints are laid face downwards on
the glass or ferrotype, squeegeed into contact, and allowed to get
thoroughly dry before they are removed. On no account must
any attempt be made to dry them by excessive heat.
If preferred, talc (French chalk) may be used with glass plates
in lieu of the glazing solution above mentioned. The talc is dusted
over the plate, well rubbed in with a tuft of cotton wool or a clean
cloth, and the surplus lightly polished off.

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