Page 203 - Geoffrey Budworth, Jason Dalton "The Little Book of Incredibly Useful Knots"
P. 203
Release hitch
Release hitches are an attempt to avoid the shortcomings of some other prusiking knots. A
“load end” wraps around the rappel rope, while a “release end” runs parallel to it and is enclosed
by the wrapping turns. Loading causes the turns to tighten and grip, whereas a tug on the release
end results in them slipping. These two were devised by Robert Chisnall some 20 years ago.
Each has its advantages. The top-loaded version releases easily, but will slide several feet as it
tightens under a load if it is slack to start with; conversely, the bottom-loaded knot grips when
even sloppily tied, but (when loaded) the release end has to be tugged very hard to cause
slippage.
Method 1 (top-loaded): with the load end, wrap upward five or six times, enclosing the release end
(1, 2). Tighten this knot methodically, then tighten it again before use (3). Method 2 (bottom-
loaded): create the figure-eight layout illustrated and wrap downward with the load end, so that
both ends emerge at the bottom of the knot (1, 2). Tighten the knot before use (3).
Top-loaded