Page 203 - Geoffrey Budworth, Jason Dalton "The Little Book of Incredibly Useful Knots"
P. 203

Release hitch







  Release hitches are an attempt to avoid the shortcomings of some other prusiking knots. A

  “load end” wraps around the rappel rope, while a “release end” runs parallel to it and is enclosed
  by the wrapping turns. Loading causes the turns to tighten and grip, whereas a tug on the release
  end results in them slipping. These two were devised by Robert Chisnall some 20 years ago.

  Each has its advantages. The top-loaded version releases easily, but will slide several feet as it
  tightens under a load if it is slack to start with; conversely, the bottom-loaded knot grips when
  even sloppily tied, but (when loaded) the release end has to be tugged very hard to cause
  slippage.


  Method 1 (top-loaded): with the load end, wrap upward five or six times, enclosing the release end
  (1, 2). Tighten this knot methodically, then tighten it again before use (3). Method 2 (bottom-

  loaded): create the figure-eight layout illustrated and wrap downward with the load end, so that
  both ends emerge at the bottom of the knot (1, 2). Tighten the knot before use (3).



  Top-loaded
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